Rest In Peace Paco Rabanne, and other stuff
This Week In Fashion
I’m already mentally preparing for NYFW while still working on Couture week reviews, while writing this weekly, while knowing I have to do a Grammy review tomorrow(: I’m doing great(:
Anyway, I got some exciting news a couple of days ago that could lead to an exciting opportunity, so plz send good energy my way, because I feel good about this one y’all.
Paco Rabanne, the couturier of the space age, has died at 88. Rabanne may have stopped designing in the 90s, but his futuristic styles of the 60s made a mark on the fashion industry for years to come. He challenged the traditional definition of clothing, and introduced plastics, metals, and new techniques into the fashion world.
Being born into haute couture, with his mother working for Cristóbal Balenciaga, and studying architecture in school, he earned money by creating sketches for the likes of Dior and Givenchy. After becoming enamored with fashion, he quickly tried to figure out how to use his architectural skills to be of use to the haute couture houses of the 60s, before starting a brand of his own. A true trailblazer that will always be remembered.
Lyst released its hottest brands and products of Q4 2022.
Prada came out on tap as number one, which we stan. Dolce & Gabbana is back in the top 10, while Balenciaga has been kicked out. Clearly Balenciaga has nothing to worry about, since Dolce shows us that cancel culture does not work<3
The hottest products for this quarter honestly made me raise an eyebrow or two, but go off!
The Marni collection was phenomenal. I do love Marni, so I might be biased, but this was quite different from what we’re used to seeing. Francesco Risso is known for his crazier, kookier designs with a lot of prints, motifs, and colors, but this one was a bit more stripped back. It wasn’t minimal by any means, because this is Marni after all, but it was sleeker and more geometric. The color palette was quite primary, mainly red and yellow, with a few pops of blue from button ups. Other than that, everything else was black and white. The Marni tour, if you will, also continued, with the show taking place in Tokyo this time. I would say the setting was quite reflective of the clothing, and I’ve felt that way with the past few Marni collections. Silhouettes varied in sleek, long lines and more bulbous, round shapes. There was a lot of really beautiful tailoring, and you know how I feel about a delicious Marni mohair. Francesco said something really wonderful about the collection that I felt had to be shared. He said, “Why do I make clothes? Because they’re our companions and there’s more to them than just air kisses. I don’t know if I make clothes that people need or clothes that need people, or if I make clothes for the people that I urgently need to need the clothes that need them. What I do know is that today we need less and less clothes that are needless.” I for one, need these clothes. Tops with bateau necklines and open sides tucked into tailored pants came down in various colors and looked stunning each time. I also really enjoyed the more rectangular tunic shapes, and a lot of the skirts on dresses had a really beautiful subtle flair. You know I’m a sucker for a polkadot so this collection was right up my alley. All the white was really striking and acted as, not only a blank slate, but also as a form of clarity. Overall, a really wonderful collection that felt refreshing, but true to the brand.
Marc Jacobs has always been known for closing out NYFW, but since being off the schedule, he’s dropped collections on the border of the event while constantly reminding us that he’s that bitch. This collection was entitled ‘Heroes’. Amongst Marc’s heroes was Vivienne Westwood, who acted as the main source of inspiration for this collection. I think something that is really wonderful about Marc is his willingness to always be open about the people that inspire him and to always support other brands and designers. Also, I live for his Instagram tagging. Although this collection was mainly dedicated to The Priestess of Punk, after her passing in December, I also felt touches of Rick Owens and Junya Wantanabe, while all being tied into the styles Marc has been putting out recently. While there was a but more chaos and exploration with different fabrics and textures this season, I also felt like this collection was one of the more “wearable.” I liked the opening, crystal, monochrome moments and a lot of the cargo styles. Touches of shearling and a fully blanketed look were right up my alley and tying on jackets in ways that they shouldn’t be worn felt very Westwood in terms of defiance. He also captured that Westwood volume and “tit tops” from her Pirates collection were recreated in twisted knit tops. I really enjoyed two neon looks that looked like they’d been acid washed by the harsh colors. Quilted, patchwork styles had a DIY punk spirt and felt very achievable and homely. Furs seemed to have intriguing chevron print throughout, and two burnt velvet looks had lumps and bumps in all the right places. I love that Marc tend to put his slits in the back of pieces, because it prevents the slit from taking away from the rest of the look. Last but not least, you can always count on Marc to give you a yummy little polkadot moment.
- Finn Wolfhard for GQ Hype; You know I’m partial to a GQ editorial, and this is no different. I love that the styling done for GQ is typically actual styling. Sure, we love a full runway fantasy, but sometimes I want to see the stylists actually style, you know? I really enjoyed the effortless feel of this shoot and the overall rockstar vibe. Yeah, he has school right now, but he has band practice right after. Not only was the blend of high luxury brands and smaller indie brands great, but there was also a lot of fantastic brands included like Bode, ERL, Peter Do, R13, and Acne Studios. ERL in specific captures such a wonderful American nostalgia that hasn’t been done by someone in such a long time; Eli Russell Linnetz’s storytelling with his collections is top tier. This is just a great shoot. Styled by Brandon Tan.
- Pamela Anderson for Interview; There isn’t too much fashion here, but Pamela Anderson interviewed by Ronan Farrow and shot by Petra Collins? Iconic. The shot with her covered in her hair is so Petra, and the fact that she’s just wearing pleasers stuck out to me. I watched her documentary on Netflix (highly recommend and fuck Pam & Tommy), and she talked about how when she’d shoot for Playboy, she’d never feel naked as long as she had her heels on. I love that we got her in a Vivienne Westwood look since her and the late designer were close friends. While she looks hot in that Burberry lace catsuit, wtf is up with the cargo pockets, Riccardo was really doing anything over at Burberry, huh? Anyway, we stan Pamela and I NEED her on the next season of The White Lotus thnx. Styled by Ron Hartleben.
- This doesn’t deserve it’s own section because it’s so lackluster. Nike collabed with Tiffany’s and THIS is the sneaker we got? Next.
- Required reading!!! This article about Pyer Moss and Kerby Jean-Raymond is a fantastic and difficult read that is so well done.
- I love this rhinestone cowboy fringe on the tracksuit silhouette we’ve seen Harry wear before. I’m also partial to a pink and blue color combo. The silk is tricky, but what can you do?
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Honestly, I thought this was an old video until i realized that that’s popcorn and not fries on his shirt. Loving this sequin food ringer tee series.
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Finally the birthday suit. She’s cute. It’s a bit of an elevated version of the tracksuit. Nothing to crazy, but I love the colors and I think this one fits really nicely.
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- Addison Rae is a fashion girly whether you like it or not. I somehow forgot to put this in last week’s newsletter so that’s why this isn’t from this week, BUT it’s too good! Sure, it’s a simple little look, but Addison understands her brand and this Roberto Cavalli SS2000 skirt is so fun. The whale tail trend is obviously a thing right now, but Addison said fuck that, we’re giving full buttcheeks! I support it.
- I’ve been loving seeing Sam have so much fun with their fashion choices recently! I just really like seeing people wear things they obviously love wearing. There’s been a lot of talk about Sam’s sense of style recently, but it’s clear that it comes from a place of hate and not from a place of fashion criticism, so I wanted to include this fun look from Loewe. Do I wish they’d also worn the balloon bra? Sure! But it still works for me as a full caftan moment and I like the platform with it.
- Noah Cyrus has such a cool sense of style and recently she’s been wearing a lot of looks from Colors Clothing Company. Both of these looks are very different, but both so fun in their own way. She went from hype beast swamp queen to acting like a stack of tires after hearing her man’s hobby is repairing old cars. I love. She’s definitely on my fashion watch list as of late.
- So Lourdes Leon, Madonna’s daughter, attended the Marc Jacobs Spring 2023 show, where she was apparently turned away from the door and told to come back for the next showing of the collection. Something smells fishy. If you zoom in on the skirt, it says Blumarine by Marc Jacobs. Interesting. An unreleased look? An upcoming collaboration? Feels like a PR stunt to me. Especially because she filmed a video with Vogue getting ready for the event, and when she was “leaving” after being turned away, she was holding that bag very strategically. I don’t know who to trust anymore.
- Sabrina Carpenter gave us Barbie, pop girly realness in Missoni, and I think it’s cute! I like that it’s an identifiable Missoni print in a knit, and I like that this sequin “coverup” has the same ribbed lining as the top. I love that Sabrina always wears the highest heels possible, because as a fellow two foot tall person myself, I relate. However, these are wedges, a trend I’ve been dreading the comeback of for months now, but what can you do?
- Anitta wore a look from Michael Kors Collection’s Spring 2023 collection, and listen, i like this look. This colelction was very Copacabana and this green was the standout color of Spring 2023, but I hate how it’s styled on Anitta. I Love Ronnie Hart with all of my heart, but the way the sarong is tied on the runway is so beautiful and really elongates the look. On Anitta it feels very sloppy and strange. I don’t mind the necklace and how it’s been tied as a choker instead, because that feels authentic to her, but the sarong? No.
- Beyoncé in Gareth Pugh is a fun pull in theory. I think the structure of it is very well done, but at the same time, what is going on lmao.
- Fun! This is from the most recent menswear collection, which was inspired by American Psycho, but like, more slay. It’s simple but I think the cut of the shirt is really wonderful and I love the shoulder. The leather skinny tie with matching gloves is great and I’m also not bad at a skinny pant. However, this look feels a touch to0 large on Troye. The sleeve length doesn’t really bother me since the shirt is quite oversized to begin with, but the pants bunching up instead of being very crisp and cutting at the ankle is not good. Still, one of my favorite collections from men’s fashion this season, and I love that we’re seeing LGN on a red carpet.
- We’ve seen Lizzo wear a look from this Alexander McQueen collection before, and I think it’s great! The collection drew inspiration from the human eye, so the blue around feels like an iris, while the center acts as a pupil. Perhaps it’s supposed to be giving a shaggy eyelash moment? Either way, I think it’s a fun little look and it fits great. i like the idea of the garter boot, and I like that the boots seem to be the same material as the bodice of the dress.
- Anok is insane for this. Obviously she’s a beautiful, thin model, so it’s not hard for her to look incredible, but I don’t care if this makes me a hypocrite, she looks incredible. When something is simple, it has to be perfect, and I think this is perfect. The tube dress is cut so well and the way the hood just subtly connects to the dress adds to the minimalism. I’m obsessed.
- This custom Roberto Cavalli look is very Cavalli and I think the fit of it is wonderful. I don’t know anything about hair, but I think the mullet makes sense with the western feel of the leather. This patchwork leather style that seems to be woven together with lace in between is a great idea, but it could be cleaner. There’s quite a bit of pull. I understand how difficult it probably is to make these different fabrics work seamlessly together, but Olivier Theyskens does it quite well so… what’s the problem?
- MISS FLO!!! Florence wore a look from the most recent Robert Wun couture collection, that was Robert’s debut show during couture week in Paris. Okay, fresh off the runway. Anyway, this fits her really beautifully and that color is incredible. I’m not sayin I want peplums to come back, but when they’re done in an incredible godet style like this? I might have to stan. While not my favorite headpiece, I love that she went for the headpiece. I feel like no one ever does anything in that department, and Robert Wun has some great options. Anyway, more headpieces in 2023!
So that was this week!!! I’m off to do Grammy reviews.
TTYL!!!
xx