Since this was a slow week, I couldn’t have expected that I’d be getting this out to you a day late, but I was not feeling well a la chronic illness, and then I watched Moonlight, so obviously I wasn’t available for the rest of the weekend, mentally. ALSO since this was a slow week, I’m going to include some looks from the SAG Awards at the end of this newsletter, because there weren’t enough looks that I wanted to talk about for a full dedicated post, and those that I did have something to say about, were not receiving the nicest words.
Anyway, let’s get into it.
Claude Montana, whose designs defined the 1980s, has died at the age of 76.
Montana was an iconic, and we see his work still referenced by many a designer, even as recently as this most recent fashion week by Willy Chavarria.
Well this earned a big “HUH?!” from me. It becomes more and more obvious that fashion is not at all about creativity and all about business, especially when it comes to publications and advertisements/sponsors.
I loved what Margaret was doing with Vogue China, and just after three years, she’s not renewing her contract after it ends during the Spring of this year. Appointed at the age of 27, she was the youngest to hold an editor position across any of the Vogues, and put out some of the most striking editorials.
The WWD headline feels kind of shady tbh, and it’s honestly funny how much fashion people make fun of influencers, because all of them and their publications are taking the influencer approach with their social medias. Anyway, I look forward to what Margaret foes next!
You know i’m not super into celebrity collaborations, because they tend to not make any sense and just feel very forced (and are rarely good), but I’m very excited about this. I promise I’m putting my bias aside, being a fan of Tyler’s music and personal style.
For starters, it’s no secret that Tyler loves fashion, having his own brands, Golf Wang and Gold le Fleur, but is also so specific when it comes to any of his visuals. We’ve seen his style and creative vision evolve over the years, however there’s always felt like there’s a thread tying it all together, whether it be his Supreme hoodies, or the style we know him for today.
When it comes to the Louis Vuitton of it all, Tyler championed Virgil Abloh’s LV and even made an appearance on the runway after his passing. Not only that, but he also collects vintage Louis Vuitton trunks, and now he has his own, with his own monogram featuring daisies and puppies— so special. Louis Vuitton is a brand about travel, and Tyler’s personal style has always had an essence of that as well.
Speaking of personal style, the timing of this, with Pharrell being the creative director of Louis Vuitton Mens, is interesting since Pharrell is known for his personal style as well, and we see it heavily translated into his collections. Personally, I feel like Tyler’s capsule collection is more reflective of Virgil Abloh’s legacy, and has that same whimsy, hope, and childlike imagination that his collections did. I can already hear people saying that Tyler’s style is obviously influenced by Pharrell, but it is very possible for the student to surpass the teacher<3
Anyway, I’m so happy for him, especially as I think back to the tumblr days, and him mocking up his own collections on there. Also, the waffle speedy with butter as the LV logo?! I need that in my life immediately.
- Solange Knowles for Harper’s Bazaar; This is very simple and minimal in terms of styling, but it’s chic and Solange is so cool. She can wear anything and I’m vigorously nodding my head. Styled by Carlos Nazario.
- W Directors Issue; Barry Keoghan as a glam vampire was very good. Emerald Fennell should maybe go into creative direction. I also think it’s funny that he wore a suit of armor since Sir James wears a suit of armor to Oliver’s birthday party in Saltburn. America Ferrera in Christopher John Rogers was the moment, and I need whoever styles her to step up their game! Sandra Hüller protraying Marilyn Monroe was interesting and I liked that they didn’t go full Marilyn drag. Styled by Allia Alliata di Montereale.
- Mark Ruffalo for GQ Hype; The creative direction here is quite simple, but the photos kind of give, like, film noir but contemporary lmao. That’s not actually what I mean, but I’m not sure I know how to get the words out exactly. Let’s be real though, this is just because I love Mark Ruffalo. Styled by Marcus Allen.
- Jenna Lyons is apparently the new EIC of The Coveteur. There has been no official announcement of this yet, but I’m not mad at the idea. Luv Jenna.
- I feel like Sydney’s style has been improving recently and this feels like a regression. Given that this is so simple, it’s really easy to see the mistakes, and this dress is too long. That’s most likely what’s causing the puckering around the waist, because once it hits the ground it has nowhere to go, and so it bunched up.
- Absolutley! This was the opening look for Simone Rocha’s guest collection at Jean Paul Gaultier and it referenced the iconic Tatouage collection. Naturally it had Simone’s special touch with metal threaded organza and pannier. Also, the pearl toe ring heel, well yes.
- ~Twin, where have you been?~ Timothée and Zendaya both wore jumpsuits by South Korean designer Juun.j when they were in Seoul doing press. This is a cute moment— I like that they wore a local designer and that we see these jumpsuits styled in different ways, one more feminine and one more masculine.
Zendaya also gagged the fuck out of me in Givenchy FW1999 by Lee McQueen. I know people were probably more shook by the Thierry Mugler cyborg moment, but Lee being my favorite designer aside, I just love a niche moment. The robot suit felt very obvious and on the nose. Don’t get me wrong, it was absolutely insane that they were able to pull that, but this little microchip, glow in the dark moment is so special. Being that this was the FW1999 collection, it was right on the heels of Y2K, so it was this commentary on personal technology and the fears people had with the coming millennia— actual Y2K fashion. It’s always intriguing to see garments made with a current time period in mind that they aren’t appart of, and it honestly kind of parallels today, with people getting literal microchips implanted into themselves. Anyway, we love to see it!
- Suddenly I can’t see the too long pants. You’d think custom work would actually look custom. That aside, I’m not mad at a full, sequin, Valentino red moment. I also like the idea of this bubble hemmed cape.
- YES DWEEB CHIC. I’m so obsessed with all of this. The glasses, the jacket zipped all the way up, the bag with that little freak on it; said little freak is actually referencing how Miuccia’s grandfather used to bring these little bits and bobs back from his travels to incorporate into the Prada pieces. I’m sure I’ve said this before, but when I become famous, literally gonna be on my hands and knees begging Dara to be my stylist.
- The same way I wondered where she wore that Balenciaga look, I am wondering where she wore this custom Oscar de la Renta mini. Ariana, wtf is going on. I just keep thinking that Glinda is about to pull up in custom haute couture lmao. Regardless, it’s a sweet little mini, and I do love seeing Oscar explore their naked styles in new and fun ways.
- THIS IS WHAT I WANT TO SEE. Why on earth has she not worn any Rabanne on the red carpet? We see her character wear chainmail in the movie, so it just feels like the obvious, perfect choice.
- Okay, we have reached the SAG portion of this newsletter. I honestly thought this was Westwood when I first saw it, but it’s custom Vera Wang! It’s simple, but it truly is beautiful. The shape of that ballgown is gorgeous and that corset is snatched. I also don’t feel like we see ballgowns in a velvet very often, and this red color is so deliciously rich.
- Maddie Ziegler, a woman after my own heart apparently, in vintage McQueen. She pulled this from Shrimpton Couture, and it’s essentially the bby sister of the iconic oyster dress. I feel like I’ve seen a lot of archive McQueen pulls recently, but this is the first one where I’m like, wow, good job!
- One thing about me, I’m always gonna be happy to see The Row. Greta is so cool, and this is so cool. This light, mint green is stunning and I love the way that it looks like a whole bunch of little ribbons fused together. The darker green, leather glove works for me in that way that The Row manages to add a bit of quirk and subversion to their garments without it feeling too forced.
- Christian Siriano strikes again! Well, this is unfortunate. I feel like Christian struck gold with that Billy Porter suit gown, and ever since he’s been trying to evolve that idea, and it’s always over designed. The colors of the tulle alone are stressing me out.
- A star! I’m a Luar fangirl obvi, so this made my heart skip a beat. For Ayo, the hooded moment we see on the runway has been dropped around her arms to create this draped off-the-shoulder moment. I loved the runway styling, however I think this works just fine and makes more sense for the direction we’ve seen her styling take recently. The skirt also has this smocked pleating on the sides that adds and almost drop waist effect that feels very reminiscent of 1930s gowns, and I’m obsessed.
- Not super impressive for Versace. It’s incredibly simple and incredibly bunchy around the waist.
- I’m gonna take a super hot guess that this was referencing the look Claudia Schiffer wore for Vogue in 1994. The thing about re-editions is that when the original is so good, it makes them even more disappointing when they’re so bad. The original skirt wasn’t weirdly too long and also had a beautiful shape. As for the top, the reason the original shirt works so well is because it feels so effortless and thrown on, whereas this has a lot of precision. It’s not great.
- The devil did in fact wear Prada. This embroidery references the Spring 2024, and it’s cute! I like the ribboned collar and the little gem right at the neckline, making it almost look like a bowtie. I do wish whatever what was happening around the waistline was a little cleaner, though.
- Everyone was like, omGGG Meryl wore Prada and Anne wore cerulean!!! Y’all clearly didn’t learn a single thing from that monologue, because if this is cerulean, I need to get checked for color blindness. It’s obviously ultramarine. Anyway, pretentious color analyzing aside, this is an ugly dress. The darts running down the back and sides of the skirt are interesting, but the belt is not a good time, and the top feels unaligned.
- I don’t think I’ve ever hated a Schiaparelli look this much. This is from the Schiaparelli Fall 2020 Couture collection that never was due to COVID, and I guess it should have stayed that way. The pink in the sketch looks like it has a lot more promise, and feels a lot more fluid. I understand that the taffeta here is probably helping it hold structure, but I think an organza would have been better. Then the rest is just a little black cocktail dress, not much to say. As someone who religiously wears an anklet, I do love the anklet.
- The embroidery here is really stunning, it is, but the dress itself is kind of underwhelming. This is referencing the Resort 2024 collection, which we’ve seen a lot of Emma’s looks for this press run pull from, and had they perhaps made a gown version of that button up, it would have been a lot cooler. Or maybe kept the shirt as is and turned the pants into a skirt with a train so the scalloped back of the top could power down it. I don’t know, something to think about.
- I’m really so obsessed with her I could die. The way this fringe moved as she walked was so stunning and added just enough intrigue to an otherwise simple dress. I also love that she always wears jewelry by indigenous designers and these earrings tie into the gown so nicely. The only thing I don’t understand is that one layer of black fringe at the bottom, I don’t think we needed that.
- This liquid mercury gown is stunning. I really do wish it was just a smidge shorter, because then it would have been perfect. It’s simple, but it’s Armani, so I mean duh. The way that fabric reflects and drapes is enough.
- This was really beautiful. Balmain has been referencing this Spring 2024 collection quite a bit for their custom looks, and I think this is my favorite of the bunch we’ve seen so far. It’s symmetrically satisfying and I love the way the green trim ties in the stems of the flowers.
- Ugh, can’t wait for her to see what she wears when she wins an Oscar. Anwyay, this is fitted very beautifully, however the skirt could have a little less fabric to lessen the puckering. It’s not my top favorite look of hers, butt he draping is nice and I don’t mind the florals, but I’m not entirely understanding their placement.
- Chef whites? It’s fine. Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Lauren is simple, but this suit just doesn’t have that same oomf as they usually do. Also, the black show is quite harsh here.
- Look, it’s a white shirt and black pants, I don’t know what you want me to say. Except, that if he told me I’d bewitched him body and soul, I would fold immediately.
- Respectfully, I don’t know who this woman is, but I’m gonna need to find out, because this Louis Vuitton gown is sickening. The precision in cut of that bodice is making me salivate, and the way it’s balanced with that chiffon, ugh.
So that was this week. I still don’t feel very well, so I’m gonna go curl up into a ball and hope for the best, haha.
TTYL!!!
xx