Peter Do Leaves Helmut Lang, and other stuff
This Week In Fashion
She’s a day late, my apologies. It has been quite the week, and this had to become my last priority unfortunately. Regardless, this was one of those weeks when every single magazine decides to release an issue featuring a million people, so, overwhelming flow of content to say the least! Also, I’ll send out the costume analysis of The Substance some time this week. Does anyone even care about that movie anymore? Oh well.
Anyway, let’s get into it.
Earlier this week it was announced that Peter Do was stepping down from his position as creative director at Helmut Lang.
One thing I will not stand for is Peter Do slander. I saw too many people talking about, thank god he’s gone! Uhm?
Do was at the brand for less than two years, which is not enough for any creative director to truly get into a groove. Not only that, but you have a brand like Helmut Lang that was so groundbreaking and successful all those years ago because it didn’t prioritize sales. That is not the case anymore, it can’t be! Consumerism is always going to be at the forefront for these conglomerates, and they’re going to expect a quick turn around in sales. Not only did Peter have to appeal to them, but he also couldn’t just leave the OG Helmut Lang fan high and dry.
I made my not so positive opinions about Do’s debut collection for the brand clear, however, already by his second season there was improvement. The more Do the collections felt the more honest the Lang references felt. It’s really a shame and a misuse of Do’s talent. Fast Retailing, the owner of Helmut Lang, Uniqlo, Theory, and J Brand, should have invested in Do’s eponymous label instead of placing him as creative director of Helmut Lang.
I often feel that many houses should close after their namesake steps down or passes away, and I think this is one of those times.
- Kaia Gerber for Vogue; I don’t remember the last time I wanted to purchase a copy of American Vogue this badly? If you don’t know, Marc Jacobs was the guest editor of this issue, something Anna Wintour has never done before, and she should be kissing his feet thanking him! Marc Jacobs is obviously an immense talent when it comes to fashion, but he’s also someone who understands and appreciates the power of art. All forms of art! That is more than evident here, with the inclusion of artists who we don’t often see featured in the fashion space, as well as the inclusion of stories and editorials that seem like obvious reflections of our current culture, and yet Vogue has continued to be obtuse. Whether you like it or not, American Vogue is top dog, it’s influence, it sets the standard, it directs the conversation. Lately it’s been very hard to care about what that conversation is, but with Marc’s help, I’m suddenly all ears. Styled by Grace Coddington.
- SZA for British Vogue; Oi. I was rooting for Chioma and British Vogue and I still am, but it has been so dull these past few months. I don’t mind simplicity, I think there is a place for simplicity. I think it can be a powerful tool. But, there is a difference between simple and boring. Styled by Julia Sarr-Jamois.
- Elle’s Women in Hollywood; We love women! Sorry, I’m not going through all of these.
- Vanity Fair’s Hollywood Issue; This is all very hot. But, can I say something and y’all won’t jump me? *whispers* Why is Lisa in it? Also! Zendaya in that pink Alaïa moment? PWAHHH! Glen making me think Gucci is hot, and I’m not into either of them like that? Dev Patel making me think Gucci is hot and I am into one of them like that? Styled by George Cortina.
- Phillip Lim steps down from his eponymous label, 3.1 Phillip Lim. A surprise, but also, is it?
- Charli XCX is the new face of Acne Studios, and like, okay? I love Charli, and I used to love Acne Studios, but the brands has felt so lost in recent seasons. I just don’t understand who they are or what they’re saying. Also, funny that she was holding a Gucci bag during her SNL performance.
- I like the idea of “Wrapped in Burberry” but Daniel Lee has yet to win me over 100%. I like the idea of showing a variety of different people wearing Burberry, but I think it’s something they need to lean in more.
- Jacquemus continues to put out incredible marketing and campaigns that I actually find myself going back to look at multiple times, while also putting out collections that I’m not even thinking about a second after scrolling trough.
- SKIMS collaborated with Dolce & Gabbana, because of course lol. It was shot by Nadia Lee Cohen, which is the only time Kim ever looks interesting, so, there’s that! Remember when Gabbana called the Kardashians the cheapest people in the world? Haha, yeah, they don’t.
- Vaquera x Marc Jacobs featuring Addison Rae. This all makes sense to me.
- Rumor has it that Matthieu Blazy is the front runner for the creative director position at Chanel? HE BETTER NOT! Bottega Veneta is so sexy, so delicious, so good. He’s really building a world over there and it’s working. Now, of course I understand the Chanel job is a North Star for many a designer, and I’m sure Blazy will allow his talents to flourish anywhere, but I honestly can’t imagine him there. I’m always team Marc Jacobs at Chanel, although if I’m actually being realistic, I’d more quickly understand a Jonathan Anderson or Hedi Slimane at Chanel.
- Listen, I like how this is styled and I’m happy it’s at least not the yellow one, but can we please let this dress rest? She’s TIRED.
- Absolutely! This color is so striking and the drape of the dress and how it’s cradled by the drape of the gloves is incredible. Also, y’all know I’m always here for a headpiece. This takes a simpler approach in styling as opposed to the way it came down the runway, but I might actually prefer it this way! Jodie always get it.
- Time to talk about the Wicked girlies! Starting with Cynthia in custom Thom Browne, she’s wearing this beautiful green and black embroidered column gown with exaggerated hip, hood, and claw shoulder. Here’s the thing, this is stunning, it’s very fun, and it’s very witchy. I love Thom Browne, but this should have been Robert Wun, no? I mean, this kind of hand motif is right up his alley.
I… don’t hate this Dior look? I love the sheer turtleneck knit over this beautiful ballgown. It creates a bit of tension that makes this a little more interesting. I like the crinoline skirt, although the draping at the hip could have been a touch neater. Also, the necklace feels out of place, I think the little netted fascinator and earrings would have been enough.
This pistachio green Louis Vuitton cream puff was so darling! I mean, there’s a lot of fantastic looks in this dump Jason posted, but I really do enjoy this LV moment. I like this bubble style they’ve been leaning into recently.
- Ariana wore custom Versace, giving us a lovely little iridescent moment in homage to the bubble Glinda comes down in. I think this is very beautiful— simple but effective. The Mickey Mouse ear bust area that Versace sometimes does usually doesn’t work for me, but I don’t hate it here.
- Usually we see Cynthia in Louis Vuitton, but this time Ariana gave us a little LV rosebud moment. This is fine. It’s not the most groundbreaking custom LV look, but I like the bubbled peplum and the corset is really beautifully fitted.
My favorite Ariana look of the week had to be this Vivienne Westwood FW2005 moment, though! The pale green and pink stripes make it perfectly Wicked, but the fashioning of all these textiles is done in the most delicious of Westwood ways.
- Jonathan Bailey in this hand ripped, silk suit is making my eyes twinkle. This technique was heavily featured in the most recent Loewe collection and I think it’s such a great way to add texture, and make an otherwise simple suit interesting.
- The GQ Men of the Year Party was this week and the dress code was Hollywood Western. This is the only look that made me audibly go “ooh!” It’s just fun and doesn’t take itself too seriously. Moschino has always been a favorite of mine, and I’m obsessed with the direction Adrian Appiolaza has been going in.
- Charli XCX wore Christopher John Rogers Collection 013, because exactly!!!
- My queen. This is so hot, I think I’ve been thinking about it at least once on the hour. When this originally came down the runway the jacket was unbuttoned, but I think having it buttoned here is very effective in showing off its stunning construction! Also, that shoe? Kick me in the eye with that point.
- Phoebe Philo’s Celine?! A girl with taste. Everyone say thank you to Danielle Goldberg and this new era of Saoirse Ronan, fashion girl, that she’s ushered in. Love a tartan color block.
So that was this week! Who do you want to see at Chanel? Impractical answers only.
TTYL!!!
xx