Meryll Rogge For Marni, and other stuff
This Week In Fashion
All I have been able to think about this week is that Rihanna’s sons are the first to wear Jonathan Anderson’s Dior on a red carpet.
Anyway, let’s get into it.
Meryll Rogge has been appointed as the new creative director of Marni!
We love to see it. You all know I loved Francesco Risso’s Marni, but I also think Meryll is fantastic and it’s always nice to actually see a woman appointed to something.
If you don’t know, Meryll has her own eponymous label, but also has worked under Marc Jacobs and was the head womenswear designer at Dries Van Noten, and also helped in production of their beauty line. I think she has the perfect amount of quirk and fun to follow a Francesco Risso Marni and I look forward to seeing her first collection!
Now that couture week is over, I wanted to revisit JW Anderson Resort 2026, because I haven’t stopped thinking about it since the lookbook dropped. When Jonathan Anderson was still the creative director of Loewe, I often discussed how JW Anderson felt like an idea incubator where Anderson was able to dream up whatever he wanted, whereas Loewe had its feet more firmly planted on the ground. This new era of JW Anderson seems to serve that logic even more.
According to Anderson, the brand is stopping runway shows– at least for now. Instead the stores will be reimagined, basically as curated galleries. He says, “The show is the store. It’s going to be about: this is how I live. This is my world, what I collect, that’s part of me.” Anderson has mentioned in the past how he views being a creative director as being a curator, and being a curator is truly his bread and butter. The man has taste and he knows how to create an experience.
His own pieces from JW Anderson will be placed alongside locally sourced clothing, crocheted keychains, handmade furniture, ballpoint pens, books, restored vintage, etc. Whether it be knits from Scotland or denim from Japan, the curated items will be the best of the best, and once they’re gone, they’re gone! No restocks. It’s like an art gallery presenting you with a new exhibit every couple of months.
Authenticity is now more than ever something many consumers are asking of brands and designers. This look into Anderson’s brain through a curated space couldn’t be more authentic if it tried. The lookbook parallels that with the use of non-model models, like Luca Guadagnino and Joe Alwyn, who are friends of the brand but also friends of Anderson’s. These are not avatars. They are people with fully fleshed-out intellectual and artistic lives. The clothing, then, becomes not a costume, but a residue of who they already are. It opens up the conversation around the authenticity of the consumer. There is a certain type of person that wears JW Anderson, but there is also a person who wears JW Anderson to be a certain type of person. You know what I mean? The former probably already goes to art galleries regularly, they probably love to fall down research rabbit holes, read obscure literature, collect rather than buy– all without intentionally wanting to say something about themselves. The latter walks into this curated space and feels that they need to buy everything so people think of them a certain way.
Regardless, I think this a brilliant approach for JW Anderson, not only because it lessens the amount of runway shows Anderson has to pump out, but also because it breaks the fashion formula we’re so used to having shoved down our throats. It slows things down and allows them to be an experience– one that is made to last through high quality fabrics and items we want to give a forever home– instead of just a fleeting moment. He’s shifting the idea from fashion as performance to fashion as experience. Instead of just simply buying something, you are participating in Anderson’s world. The store-as-gallery reveals that fashion has always been curation. The only difference is whether the curation is inward-looking or outwardly performative.
- Keke Palmer for Who What Wear; I love this approach in paying homage to different icons. It’s very modern without being a direct copy and paste. My favorite is the Josephine Baker take on the banana skirt, but with shoes. So fun! Styled by Zerina Akers.
- Love Magazine is relaunching five years after its fold.
- Loro Piana is under investigation for worker abuse. Another one.
- A Virgil Abloh exhibit is coming to Paris in September.
- Matthieu Blazy is debuting his Chanel in NYC. Someone get me there, plz. I’ll do anything.
- I cry every time I look at this. This mini Dior Men looks are maybe the best thing I’ve ever seen. They’re already so cool and they don’t even know it. Rihanna also looks incredible, obviously. This drop waist, bell shaped skirt is perfect for a baby bump and that brown is delicious— the olive green bow is the perfect accent color.
Then she wore Alaïa and it was even more incredible. That skirt is perfect. I need you all to see it in motion.
- I know this is quite simple, but it’s so pretty and I love Conner Ives. He really knows what to do with some jersey fabric.
- Okay Lola! I’m sure no one read into this as much as I am, but Ann Demeulemeester is such a romantic brand and this show is a romance so it just feels very fitting. Love the headpiece and how the shoe offsets the rest of the look. Very chic.
- My crush on Louisa Jacobson continues. This light blue is so dreamy and I love how the socks are also the lightest shade of blue. It’s very simple Thom Browne, but just so cool.
- Pamela Anderson in Willy Chavarria— we love to see it! I really wish we could get into the layers of that skirt, because it’s such a rare technique in creating this brocade. Very lovely colors.
- Charli XCX got married in a dress that looks exactly like what I imagined she’d get married in. Very her, very cute. Congratulations to Charli and Mr. XCX!
So that was this week! It’s almost my birthday and my brain is getting weird. Right on cue!
TTYL!!!
xx