Louis Vuitton Resort 2025, and other stuff
This Week In Fashion
A lot of Cannes looks to get through, as well as a lot of kind of scrumptious editorials. It is Memorial Day Weekend and I have been writing all week for work and do have a pretty stacked weekend and I feel like I’m dying, so I feel in my bones that this is going to come out late! Guess we’ll know soon enough.
Anyway, let’s get into it.
This season’s resort collection for Louis Vuitton was shown in Barcelona, Spain, in the Hypostyle Room of Antoni Gaudi’s Park Güell. As I’ve spoken about, probably ad nauseam at this point, Nicolas Ghesquière’s work often defies time, looking as if it could live in the past, present, or future, and this location kind of mirrored that same quality. Louis Vuitton’s resort collections also tend to be destination shows, which makes sense given the brand’s association with travel and luggage. There was also clothing that was appropriate for all kinds of weather, which is actually kind of smart, as I saw Nicolas talking about how the Resort collections are sold for the longest period of time, and so they do span a few seasons.
Along with including inspiration from the location itself, through elements like tiled beading, Nicolas also mentioned a slew of Spanish artists he was inspired by, including Velazquez, Goya, and Zurburan, whose art spans the Baroque and Rococo periods. Luis Buneul, a filmmaker known for his surrealism, was also on the moodboard. All of this, along with Nicolas’ usual approach to design felt very synergistic, and about the collection the designer also said, “I love that this country is evocating a certain groundedness and some rigor, and in the meantime it’s about freedom, it’s about youngness, it’s about an extravagance somehow.” All these dichotomies translated in the clothing that began quite tailored and structured at the start of the show, before becoming more fluid and soft towards the end.
Influences of the 80s, the era of Nicolas’ childhood were quite evident in the broad shoulders, but also managed to have a futuristic feel. Draping and pleating was stunning, for the most part, and felt like looking at the use of chiaroscuro in a painting, which the artists he was inspired by often played with. This use of light and darkness was meant to evoke volume and definition in paintings, the same way the folds in the final looks do.
Earlier this week I wrote about cowboy style for work and how we’re continuing to see a rise in it, which I find has a lot to do with the unstable state of the economic and political climates, making people want to indulge in smaller luxuries. Instead of spending money on something that’s more of an investment, they can turn to the signs and symbols that cowboy iconography represents, and through mass consumption and fast fashion it is a lot easier for them to feel like they are part of a community through these purchases. Novelty also appeals to consumers, especially during a time when a lot of the things we see on the runway are more commercial, and so when we see something like cowboy core, if you will, or Nicola’s design style, it scratches that itch. As Roland Barthes writes in The Fashion System, “Clothing is a system of signs, an array of symbols that communicate social status, identity, and cultural meaning.”
Speaking of cowboy fashion, there is a bit of horse girl action happening here, through the riding boots, and a bit of boho chic with fringe and lace detailing a lot of the garments. Some dresses felt a bit Paco Rabanne, which I later saw Nicolas said was actually the inspiration for them. Pleating of tulle was stunning and defined the waist beautifully, and plays with negative space were quite compelling. Overall, I can see how this would be a polarizing collection for many, but it’s nothing if not Nicolas.
- Ayo Edebiri for Vanity Fair; Just a fashion girl being a fashion girl! It very much feels like a doll trapped in her house, which honestly feels like a theme that has been explored quite a bit recently with editorials featuring women, whereas all the men are hitting the American West. Much to think about! Styled by Stella Greenspan.
- Anya Taylor-Joy for British GQ; Very edge, very chic, but didn’t need the Dolce and Alexander Wang double shot. There really is a lot of deliciousness here, though, and I love that we saw her actually wearing this Dilara Findikoglu look while doing press as well. Styled by Lisa Jarvis.
- Anya Taylor-Joy for Vogue Australia; This is the complete opposite side of the spectrum, but so sweet! I feel like every time I see a Vogue Australia editorial it’s quite laid back and “chill” which makes sense with what I imagine the Australian fashion scene being like. Styled by George Cortina.
- Hunter Schafer for Vogue Italia; This is one of my favorite editorials of the year. It’s so ethereal and dreamy, but also plays with this idea of being observed. When talking about it, Dara discussed the performance of being a woman and that’s immediately what I thought of when looking at the photos, so goal accomplished. Loved seeing the Christopher John Rogers top, since I think about it every single day of my life! She was also on the cover of Vogue Germany— same shoot but some varying photos! Styled by Dara Allen.
- Emma Corrin for Harper’s Bazaar; A cool person being cool. Vogue should take notes for their future beach photoshoots, and also how to make a simple editorial actually kind of interesting. Emma is non-binary and I find that this editorial kind of plays with the ideas of masculine and feminine dress. Styled by Carlos Nazario.
- Jacob Elordi is Bottega Veneta’s new brand ambassador. This makes very much sense, given the fact that Jacob is no stranger to a Bottega bag or red carpet look. It feels very natural, given that the brand’s last campaigns, featuring Kendall Jenner and A$AP Rocky, were just paparazzi shots of them wearing the clothes in their regular lives (obviously very clockable as ads prior to announcement of campaign, but). Although I do think Jacob would wear Bottega by choice, the brand has in fact been sending him stuff over the years, lol, so they have in fact been planting him as a brand ambassador in our minds. On another note, Joe Alwyn has been wearing quite a bit of Bottega recently as well, and I’m wondering if he’s next. Is Matthieu Blazy scooping up the internet boyfriends that Jonathan Anderson hasn’t yet?
- Princess Bella Hadid is back at Cannes, which is most pleasing to me because she was one of my favorites, in terms of fashion, last year. With that being said. not obsessed with this Saint Laurent dress! The Fall 2024 collection featured a lot of sheer dresses made of the same material as tights, which is what this is, while this ruching in the center is something we’ve seen Anthony Vaccarello do quite a bit at Saint Laurent. I mean, listen, I don’t know how they’re going to make this collection make sense for retail if they even do at all, but red carpets and events are the only places where I’d expect it to be. I do wish she was carrying the large coat at least, just for fun— for the drama!
I kind of love this Gucci dress and kind of don’t. Bella is stunning, and if there’s anyone that makes sense for vintage Gucci it’s her. Last year she gave us a stunning moment wearing Tom Ford’s Gucci, and this year she wore a dress from Alessandra Facchinetti’s debut collection for the brand. I feel like you can still kind of see those Tom-isms, however, I do feel like it’s one of those moments were there isn’t much happening, but there’s also a lot happening.
My favorite of Bella’s looks had to be this archive keffiyeh dress by Michael and Hushi. Not only did she use her paparazzi walks to promote Orabella, but she also used them so support Palestine! Celebrities actually using their voices to speak on this genocide is too few and far between, and this was a smart way to show support and to embrace her heritage. Also! Carrie Bradshaw wore a halter top from this collection once, if you were wondering.
This Atelier Versace dress she wore was so stunning and glamorous. It’s simple as far as Versace dresses go, however the pleating and ruching at the waist is done incredibly, and manipulating the fabric to highlight the waist is smart design. I like this pointed dip into the pelvis, and the sequin striped skirt is nice!
- Every time someone wears Haider Ackermann’s couture collection for Jean Paul Gaultier, my heart flutters. I will say this any chance that I get, but this collection was so under appreciated!! For Cate it’s been made longer and the train has had a bit of a color change, but it’s still stunning. I like that it almost looks like the bust is floating off of her, and that this strand coming around the shoulders is not at all connected to the dress.
- So this is interesting!! Anne is wearing custom Gap by Zac Posen. Yes, Gap! As you probably know, Zac is now the creative director of Gap, and we saw him create a look for Da’Vine Joy Randolph for the met gala through the Gap atelier(?), and now this! To be fair, after his eponymous brand closed, I’ll take a Zac Posen gown however I can get it, but this is really lovely. It’s smart in that it takes something central to Gap— the white button up, and adds those elements of couture by incorporating darts, a skewed placket, and a matching corset. ALSO, it’s available for pre-order, which is kind of wild. It’ll be interesting to see how this made-to-order approach works for the brand.
- I’m a simple girl. I see Christopher John Rogers, I smile. I love when CJR does something void of color, because he’s so known for his use of color. Regardless, this is still so identifiable and that ruffled peplum is incredible. It’s also very smart to incorporate different textures into a monochrome look in order to give it more depth.
- Anya wore Mugler Fall 2024, and I literally JUST realized that that’s what the back of this dress looks like. As if it couldn’t get any hotter, she gives you a little peekaboo booty, and the sculpted draping of this is really stunning.
Imagine me ever getting tired of this Marni collection! I feel like we’ve usually seen these completely painted, whereas here leaving the bottom white makes it feel like a spot of blank paper that has yet to be painted, and I’m into it.
- If I see a look inspired by Prada’s SS2009 collection, I will be eating it up, I fear. Love this gold/green, love the crinkle and wrinkle, love how it’s fitted to her waist, love how it’s tailored— obsessed.
- This is so close to being stunning. It’s very Harris Reed in it’s grandness, however I find that these in your face elements often distract from things like the seams at the sides that are struggling!!
- Lewis Hamilton continues to be one of the best dressed men in custom Dior. I love these deep, plunging necklines he’s been sporting, because they highlight his tattoos so nicely.
- Lady Gaga is getting weird again!! We’re so back. I’m pretty sure she’s wearing an actual car part, so that’s fun.
![Lady Gaga's 'Gaga Chromatica Ball' Film Premiere Red Carpet [PHOTOS]](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!8_Jx!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fa189ed04-a7f0-46c9-8558-b73edba46a60_800x1000.jpeg "Lady Gaga's 'Gaga Chromatica Ball' Film Premiere Red Carpet [PHOTOS]")
- Coco Rocha can literally sell you on anything, but this calla lily dress is really beautiful. I definitely thought it was Guarav Gupta at first, but regardless, the flow and structure is stunning.
- Joey King kind of popped off at Cannes this year. I will say, I do think the straps are unnecessary here, and add one design element too much, but I love that this is entirely sheer, and the only thing creating a bit of opaqueness on the bust and pelvis is the layering of the fabric. Very dreamy.
She also wore custom Miu Miu and I gasped! This is based on the Fall 2024 collection, where classic little black dresses were subverted with cutouts in various areas. This little cutout on the lower back is subtle, but effective, and I’m always here for a good buttery yellow.
- Elle Fanning has been wearing a lot of Chanel at Cannes this year, which is not at all a good time for me, but she also wore one of the only good looks from Gucci’s latest resort collection, so, there’s that!
So that was this week! She is in fact late, but at least only by a morning heehee.
TTYL!!!
xx