There’s been a lot of discourse recently about people “deserving” to purchase dupes of clothing items on websites like SheIn, because they “deserve” to have the clothes they want but can’t afford. Now, I want you to use your critical thinking skills when I say this next thing, but, you don’t deserve anything. Capitalism, will make sure that websites like SheIn are always going to be available to satisfy whatever trend it is that you think you need to own in that exact moment. However your selective care about the items you are purchasing, because you deserve them, seems to not apply to the people making those clothes who are not getting paid livable wages and who are working in horrid conditions— they deserve to be treated like humans. The focus needs to be put on these large corporations and the impact they are having on the fashion industry, the planet, the economy, etc. Not the small designers who have to fight for their life defending their prices to you and the people trying to explain to you why you don’t need these dupes. You can’t afford designer? That’s fine! Do you know how much designer you can buy second hand under $40??? Have you heard of eBay, TheRealReal, Poshmark, Depop??? At the end of the day, we should be considering how it is we can purchase less, in general, and actually take care of the clothing that we already have. There is so, so much more that could be said, and maybe I’ll make it a separate post, but for now, that is all.
Anyway, let’s get into it.
Nicolas Ghesquière has started making his pre-fall collections destination shows, the same way he does his resort collections, and with this season, he took us to the Long Museum West Bund in Shanghai. While I do feel like pre-fall and resort collections are excessive, I do understand their purpose. Naturally, this collection featured elements that we saw him explore in his Fall 2024 collection, which was celebrating 10 years at the brand for him as creative director. He also collaborated with Chinese artist, Sun Yitian, whose work often features hyper realistic figures, painted after photographs she has taken herself. Here we saw balloon-like animals, like a leopard, a bunny, a zebra, a penguin, etc. – the bunny even featured Louis Vuitton blossoms as pupils!
Nicolas designs seem to defy time, looking as if they could exist in the past, present, or future. There’s always this futuristic, sci-fi element to his work, which is something that other designers play with as well, however Nicholas’ approach feels quite hopeful. The clothing looks like it's meant to survive in a future that isn’t so bleak, when compared to the post-apocalyptic styles we often see in futuristic design. The collaboration with Yitian adds a bit of that playfulness to a world that feels full of childlike imagination, with its fun prints and colors. However, it’s still thinking about an actual reality, with its utilitarian details and impeccable structures.
In an interview with System Magazine in 2012, Nicolas said, “I’m often most inspired by things beyond the immediate world of fashion. It’s broader cultural or social movements that have influenced looks or identities I’ve created. These days I sense that people don’t dig particularly deep; inspiration rarely goes beyond borrowing what’s happened in the past and rarely with- out adding any new layers of context. By that I mean the culture of fashion has lost some of its depth.” This feels like a key statement about why it is that we find his work so refreshing and often ahead of its time. Yes, he references the old, but he’s creating something new, and it might not make sense to everyone right away, but in a couple of seasons we’ll see it everywhere. It all exists beyond a specific time. During a time when so many are saying that there’s a shift happening in fashion, Nicola’s designs have always been and continue to feel stable in what they are and what they want to be.
Draping was dreamy, and peplums took a softer approach, tech jackets had compelling snap details and straps, and perforations added a bit of ventilation. I really enjoyed cropped parka jackets that unzipped diagonally, almost like a puzzle coming apart or a relic cracking open. With the futurism, also comes period references, like plays on leg of mutton sleeves and frilled collars, however here done in a leather I assume. There were some moto and sporty elements here and there, which is to be expected, one of which being the look Zendaya wore for her British Vogue cover recently. The damier print made an appearance in a look, and not that it’s something new for Louis Vuitton, but it makes sense with travel and luggage being so central to the brand, and this being a destination show. Nicolas also continues to play with belting, and wrapped around the waist in scarf like styles, paired with frilled skirts, chunky knits, and sharp tailoring alike, it was really lovely. Towards the end we got some really beautiful structured leathers, as well as structured bubble hem dresses that looked like they had inflated godets. They complimented the very fitted bodices nicely, and also felt complimentary of the balloon figures in Yitian’s art.
Nicolas is a designer who manages to take us through an array of worlds and experiences, however the air in those worlds is all the same and makes everything feel so distinctively him.
This gets its own section because I love Shayne Oliver and I am so excited for this. Also, just on a side… is it crazy to say that he would be able to take over McQueen, because I don’t think it’s crazy.
Now, this isn’t couture, it’s ready-to-wear, and while I think Shayne would be capable of both, I think this makes more sense with the direction he’s been wanting to go since leaving Hood By Air, and I’m very excited to see his perspective through JPG.
The collection drops on May 6, AKA the same day as the Met Gala, and is said to consist of about 50 pieces.
- Elizabeth Debicki for Vogue; As far as Vogue editorials go, this is spectacular. Ahead of the Met Gala, Elizabeth Debicki was photographed by Steven Meisel in a few of the looks that we will see as part of the Costume Institute’s, Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion exhibit. I know it’s just for the photo, but I can’t believe she actually wore the Junon dress. Also, seeing Alessandro’s Gucci made me tear, I’m fine. You’ll notice a nature theme, and that’s because the exhibit will be separated into land, air, and sea. Also, the dress code for the Met Gala is: The Garden of Time. Anyway, they should have fun with their editorials more often. Styled by Amanda Harlech.
- Dua Lipa for Elle; You know what, all the styling done here feels very cohesive with this new era she’s entered, except that it’s actually interesting. Thank god for Patti Wilson. Dua Lipa used to be the perfectly dressed pop girl. Like, she was wearing all the brands the TikTok fashion girls wanted to be wearing, you know? She was keeping Blumarine afloat! Now, I’m often left so bored by everything she wears, and I don’t understand why all this energy is saved for an editorial. Styled by Patti Wilson.
- No required reading this week, but we do have a required watch! I just love knowing everything that I can know about this show and collection.
- Okay, this looks like Sabato trying to do Alessandro’s Gucci, no? It just feels too sterile for that. The top and bottom being different colors and different sequins, doesn’t feel like it’s true to what we’ve seen him put down the runway, and I think a simple sequin gown in that Gucci “ancora” red would have made more sense. I’m not saying I would have liked it more necessarily, I’m just saying I would have understood it more.
- I literally don’t know anything about basketball, but I do know who the Bayou Barbie is, and she looks so! good! She’s wearing a dress by Bronx & Banco, and it’s super fun! I love the cowl neck into hood in this sheer, shimmering fabric. I’ve been thinking a lot about the intersection of fashion and sports recently. I’m not sure why, but I have, and I will be falling into a hole about it shortly.
- Like I said, I don’t know anything about sports, and I just learned who Caitlin Clark was last week, but she wore Prada!! I also believe she’s the first person from the WNBA to do so. You know what, it’s cute! I don’t love that the skirt is creasing, but that is just what that fabric is wont to do.
- This might be Zendaya’s first miss for me in I don’t know how long. This is the first look for this press run that seems to be off theme— the only connection I can make is that the color way is complimentary to the movie promo, and perhaps this lingerie bodice is meant to tap into the femme fatale quality of Zendaya’s character in Challengers. Regardless, it’s not a great dress. Up top we have this lace intermingling with satin and boning, and a bit of a garter situation, which I love. Then we get to the skirt and I’m deeply confused. For why did we think that random tuft of black tulle was necessary? Also the pleating of the tulle at the pelvis is incredibly clunky, and I think it would have been more effective without the black, or if we’d just made the skirt a black lace.
I know this tennis ball dress is incredibly on the nose, but it’s so silly and fun! It fits beautifully, and the tennis ball green to match the tennis ball embroidery is great. We often see this style of dress from many brands, like Saint Laurent and Magda Butrym, but the ruching is often held together by a rosette or a crystal embellishment, so I think this was a great why to make a simple dress more interesting.
Now, this was a moment. Zendaya and Law recreated a look from a photo that Annie Leibovitz took of Venus and Serena Williams for Vogue in 1998. I love the research and time Law puts into planning these looks out for Zendaya. They pull references from the movies she’s in, yes, but they also beautifully pay homage to those that came before them. Not only are Venus and Serena tennis players like Zendaya’s character in Challangers, but they’re also fashion girls in their own right, so that feels like a little extra specialness! I really wish she’d worn this dress to the Los Angeles premiere of the movie instead of the Vera Wang, because Wes Gordon did such a beautiful job recreating this. It fit her incredibly, and the garment construction was just very smart, especially with the stripes expanding as they go down the skirt.
While this might not be an obvious refrence to the film, Ralph Lauren is a very classic, American sportswear brand, and is also very heavily asscociated with prep, as is tennis. ALSO, Polo Ralph Lauren is the official partner of The All England Lawn Tennis Club, so. Since this is vintage, I’m assuming it’s from Law’s archive, and on the runway it was paired with pants, however I think the blazer mini works here.
Finally, she wore custom Jacquemus, and honestly… I like it??? Listen, we don’t see a lot of custom from Jacquemus and you often don’t hear me say the nicest things about the current state of the runway collections, but this is sweet! The hair and the dress are all very 1950s meets 1960s, but then the polo top attached to the skirt with a jump chord of sorts is such a fun way to make such a classic silhouette a bit more modern and sporty. Jacquemus really thrives when they lean into athleisure, at least in my opinion, so I’m very happily surprised by this.
- I had to talk about this Rihanna look from Coachella real quick, because I’ve been thinking about it all week, haha. BRING BACK STYLING. I mean like actual styling. I know why brands only allow full looks to be pulled, and I know they want their image to look a certain way, but it is so much fun to see this kind of play in styling. Also, every single time Rihanna wears something, I think of another illegal thing I would do for her archive.
She also wore Peter Do because she has taste. I do wish the pants had one less break, but other than that, I love.
- This Ferragamo look Beyoncé wore is so, so good. It’s just so chic and so sharp— that waist?!
Then the Chloé Fall 2024?! Those belts are still not for me, but the lace bodysuit with this wool and plaid shawl? Shut UP.
So that was this week! I had a dream that I was late to work today, so instead I was half an hour early and woke up one minute before my alarm<3
TTYL!!!
xx