Alright, we’re halfway through fashion month. I honestly didn’t realize how much I missed seeing, like, regular fashion shows?
London is one of my favorite cities, and I cry every time I remember I don’t live there hahahaaa.
Anyway, let’s get into the LFW rundown.
Halpern’s collection was dedicated to the performing arts and was a collaboration with the ballet. Halpern played with materials like vegan leather, and with the different ways fabrics can be manipulated when used in the motions of dance. I think there’s a lovely synergy between dance and fashion that allows you to escape into a fantasy world, and Halpern captures that beautifully. I loved the feathers, fringe, and color all coming alive with movement.
The Bora Aksu collection was inspired by World War I. The designer mentioned that it was split into three sections; the influenza pandemic of 1918, the “grieving period” that came after, and the Roaring Twenties. I feel like this collection kind of mimics the time we’re in now with the COVID-19 pandemic. People suffered (are still suffering), there’s a constant attempt at “normal” life, and people keep thinking about the hopeful future and celebration. I really enjoyed the bouclé jackets and cotton dresses. The pale blue of the “grieving period” was a really pretty color, and I liked the ruffles of the finishing looks.
This season Vivienne Westwood drew inspiration from her 1998 “Tied to the Mast” collection. It’s giving pirate/sailor fantasy, and I definitely enjoy the original collection more. I do think Westwood did a great job of taking an old collection and making it feel more modern though; it feels youthful, but… a little boring. The show notes mentioned that the materials used were 98% low-impact and cruelty-free.
Nensi Dojaka, the winner of the LVMH prize had her first solo show filled with all her signature techniques. Her tights with seems running up the front and cutouts here and there are so fun. I’m obsessed with the petal like bras and the cute little floral details. Dojaka is just the brand that I would want to wear after being home for a year and wanting to go out. While I didn’t mind the super high-waisted trousers, there were some legging-like pants that I did not love.
Starting with swimsuits and leading into fun, glitzy, and bright going out clothes, David Koma made me want to party. I’ve been convinced to wear more neon. There were so many yummy sequin looks, and simple black dresses and skirts with interesting hemlines and embellished details that hit at all the right places. The marabou feathers in that amazing blue color. Yes, please.
With her Spring 2022 collection, Yuhan Wang said her collection was inspired by Victorian-era photographs of North American frontierswomen and ranchers. She took this romantic femininity and made it strong. Her models walked in floral motifs, armed with pistol holsters. I really enjoy her drapy, lacy dresses. The slight western flair was interesting, and the accessories definitely spark a conversation that needs to continue being had.
The Knwls show was full of signatures like sheer mesh, low-rise pants, cinched waists, cutouts, and lingerie as outerwear. The collection felt gritty and grimy but in the best way. There was a boho feel, pieces that looked distressed with oil grease and acid, and a bit of a mod flair. While wearing Knwls, you can expect your clothes to do the talking for you. Although filled with vintage inspo, it’s a collection that feels relevant to today’s customer.
I am a Molly Goddard fan girl, and I really enjoyed this collection. Not only did I love the tulle being dressed down in a more accessible and wearable way, but I also enjoyed seeing signature silhouettes in different fabrics. Not a popular opinion, but I love a dress over pants moment.
Although not my fave personally, there were some lovely floral looks at Erdem and some fun accessories. I loved the linen/canvas look of some of the dresses that were embroidered with glitz.
Roland Mouret had some fun fabric manipulation and color. Although simple, the clothing felt light and earthy while still bringing the glamour.
This season Eftychia felt less business wear and more everyday wear. The Bermuda short trousers, the clean lines, the t-shirts. It opens your mind to what actually is office appropriate and how you can utilize your whole closet.
Rejina Pyo felt effortless and fun this season. I loved the fun colors, printed city scapes, and matching knits. The designer mentioned inspiration coming form photographs and scenes in a dream. I thought there was a lovely femininity throughout the collection.
Richard Malone’s show was full of nostalgia. The designer mentioned that the scrunchy like elements were inspired by armbands his grandmother used to assemble by hand, and the looks were truly amazing. The vivd colors and gorgeous tailoring brought something special to looks that might have otherwise been very simple. Loved the bolero jackets. The finally looks full of drapes (literally) were fab.
S.S. Daley made it’s LFW debut, and is definitely a designer to watch. The show took on the conversations of race, masculinity, sexuality, etc. Stylist Harry Lambert discovered the designer and pulled clothing for Harry Styles to wear, which was just the beginning. With some of the loveliest knitwear and a youthful feel, there was so many things about this collection I loved.
Emilia Wickstead made me think of modern day Alice in Wonderland, if Alice was like, a lady who lunched, but also didn’t say no to a boozy brunch. I loved the bold colors, and the cropped sets (some made me think of Fendi). There was one dress with a lovely low back and some cute floral looks that really accentuated the waist and hips.
London’s been hot y’all, and I don’t mean the weather. Supriya Lele brought it with the mesh, asymmetrical cutouts, peekaboo thongs, and tiny crops. In New York this summer a lot people were wearing bathing suits and lingerie as outerwear, myself included. The London girlies clearly have the same idea. Blurring the lines between what to wear and when to wear it is something that Lele does so well. I also love her incorporation of her Indian culture.
While I didn’t feel like Stefan Cooke this season was super new and exciting, I did still think there were a lot of sweet looks, and of course, lovely knits. Cooke mentioned that they were looking back at their teenage years, which I can pick up on. I thought it was interesting that there were a lot of elements like cutouts and mesh, which are things we tend to see in womenswear collections. There was also one top that made me think of Paco Rabanne. I liked the play on logos and the mesh argyle tops.
I honestly really enjoyed Roksanda. The movement in the clothing was lovely and I love a good punchy color. The messy brush strokes on some of the clothing was interesting, but my favorite thing was the boned hemlines in some of the looks.
Fashion East brings together young, emerging designers to put on a show where they can showcase their designs, and this season was full of hits. Starting off the show strong, Maximilian brought the sexiness. Inspired by his Trinidadian roots, the clothing felt genuine and was full of lightness and freedom. Even the simplest looks captured my interest, and I was mesmerized by a liquidy nylon dress. The finally look gave insane carnival realness.
Next in the lineup, Chet Lo brought a different vibe. Still sexy and still swimwear inspired, but with more of a pop art feel. He uses a spiky, sheer fishing wire knitwear technique to give his clothing texture, and it honestly just makes me happy. It’s like those one-size, popcorn shirts we used to all wear but like, actually chic. I also loved the accessories and color gradients. Lo said he often times considers things digitally, and his clothing is sure to capture eyes on Instagram.
Jawara Alleyne brought more of a streetwear feel and played with fabric manipulation and proportions. I thought it was fun and there were a lot of interesting techniques taken when it came to draping and distressing. The designer created the whole collection on their bedroom floor, *claps*.
While the stretch jersey materials in Goom Heo’s collection make me think comfort, the gathering, knotting, and cutouts add a little bit of chaos. The designer does after all describe the mood of the collection as, “Chaotic, but in a zone of comfort.” Denim was given more of an edge, and who said trains have to stay in the back?
Finally, HRH gave Y2K Instagram baddie with her swimwear looks. I thought it was cute and fun!
I want to kiss Simone Rocha on the mouth. I always love Rocha’s collections and this was no different. The collection started with gorgeous white, lace, tulle looks, and I was already hooked. There was so much lovely detail and texture in the clothing, and Rochas said she was inspired by the way children interpret their clothing, and just different things children and babies go through when clothing is involved. Just having given birth, I definitely get the post-natal vibe of the collection, as well as something beautifully haunting. I loved the large collars and antique like coats.
Ashlyn takes simple clothing and makes it feel special. Whether it be the removable bustles, the suits playing on proportion, or the daring cutouts that dare be moved, there’s always something about the clothing that feels like it’s been made with close care. The last photo in the lookbook isn’t a complete look, but the designer wanted to show how, “…the perfect piece takes time and care.”
JW Anderson stayed quirky and cute this season, and honestly I enjoyed v much. The sheerness, the circular embroidery, the frayed knits. While I liked the different kinds of sandals, I’m not sure about this mule/sweatband moment? I’m intrigued to see more from the direction he’s heading in.
Richard Quinn has been accused of copying not one, but two designers in his most recent collection. Honestly, I think it’s a bit of a stretch. A lot of signature Richard Quinn’s elements that date back to his graduate collection are still here. While latex peaced out for this collection, full body suits and fun florals are still here. I loved the draped and pleated looks where the pant covered the shoe. It was also interesting to see solid color looks from Quinn since he does love a pattern. There were two leather looks with fun spikes that looked like an angry sea urchin. I would love to see some of the gowns on a red carpet.
Harris Reed is a designer I have loved following, and I was so excited for his debut show! For this collection, Reed repurposed old bridal and groom’s wear to create lovely demi-couture wedding dresses and tuxedo hybrids. And let’s not forget those signature, larger than life headpieces. I liked the looks with more of a tailored silhouette best, and appreciate the gender-fluidity of Reed’s work. There was a lace, off-the-shoulder look that was lovely. I often feel like his collections are one big art piece; they all make sense together and feel like they’re telling a story.
So that was London!!! I think I liked her more than New York. What about you guys? Who were your faves, I’d luvvv to know!