Juergen Teller Rights, and other stuff
This Week In Fashion
Things are starting to finally pick up after the holiday’s, so although nothing major, we do have a few things to get through this week! The next fashion season is also just around the corner. I think I’ll be doing a roundup of standout moments again, the same way I did last season. As much as I’d love to give you a full written review of each collection, I am but one person, so those will be on TikTok, just because it’s more sustainable. Also! I watched Poor Things this past week and I had a good time, especially with the costume design, so I’ll get an analysis of that out to you by the end of this week.
ALSO, I’ve been getting a steady flow of new subscribers recently, and I don’t know how you’re all finding me, but thank you for being here. Sometimes I feel like I’m typing into a void, so it’s nice to know that I’m not. If you have a nice time, I would kiss you on the face with consent if you would be so kind as to share it with your friends, followers, sugar daddies, whoever. Thnx<3
Anyway, let’s get into it.
- Linda Evangelista for V; Linda for V Magazine with styling by Patti Wilson and photos by Steven Klein? Pwahh. These shots are incredible, and I know Linda has spoken about her insecurities quite a bit since being back in the spotlight, but honestly, I’ll take her however I can get her, because this is obviously what she’s meant to be doing.
- W’s Performance Issue; This portfolio of photos was shot by Juergen Teller, and as usual, people have jokes. You can say he’s boring and lazy all you want, but he’s not. The only thing that’s boring and lazy is the memory loss everyone seems to have every single time a Juergen Teller photo is posted and you make all the same jokes. But even if they were boring and lazy, it doesn’t matter, because they’re good. To think that this man just takes photos without putting a single thought into them is to have not a single, critical thought. Juergen gained popularity in the 90s by photographing models using a very overexposed flash, depicting them in these very vulnerable, human ways, stripping them of all the otherworldly glitz and glamour that made them feel untouchable. In 1999 his book ‘Go-sees’ also came out, full of these photos, and in an interview discussing the book, Juergen talked about how he realized that he had so much power, as a man, taking photos of these woman. Not only do I feel like we see him continue to be aware of this power dynamic as he’s continued to take fine art and fashion photographs, but he also makes people feel very human, regardless of who it is he’s photographing. Framing celebrities in these super mundane locations, taking photos that look subtly off-guard, makes them feel like we could take them ourselves, but really we never could. He’s always played with the constructs of beauty and subverted what it is we should expect from photos of people, especially celebrities. For instance, the photos of Margot Robbie in front of the mannequin heads feel very meta with the Barbie of it all, and her facial expression in the Bottega look is perfect. Although Natalie Portman’s Dior looks are forgettable, placing her in a Hollywood gift shop that is incredibly tacky, feels very fitting for the character she plays in May December— and actor who takes herself incredibly seriously, but is actually deeply unserious. Some other stand outs to me were Greta Lee in Loewe standing in front of the fruit stand, Charles Melton in Ferragamo, Colman Domingo with a lobster, Ryan Gosling with a Ken wearing the same outfit as him in his pocket, Jodie Foster framed in a circular window, Da’Vine Joy Randolph in Willy Chavarria (although I will admit, the choice to backlight her is kind of crazy), Julianne Moore making me think this Chanel look is cute, Robert Downey Jr. getting it, Taraji P. Henson in Michael Kors, Jeffrey Wright in Marni, Julia Garner in Celine, Talia Ryder looking like Chewbacca next to Chewbacca, Teyana Taylor on a “Hollywood red carpet,” Phoebe Dynevor in Louis Vuitton, Harris Dickinson, Calum Turner, and Sandra Hüller in front of a Chinese food menu.
- There were a few really great campaigns that came out this week. Starting with Prada, Miuccia must be a Troye Sivan stan, because first he walked the Miu Miu show, and now he’s one of the new faces of the Spring 2024 Menswear campaign— she’s always been a women with taste. Along with Troye we have Harris Dickinson and Kelvin Harrison Jr. which I think are all great choices. They make sense to me, and this idea of timelessness and identity that Prada has been focusing on.
- We also got Pamela Anderson for Proenza Schouler Spring 2024. Again, this makes sense to me and these photos are STUNNING. Pamela has recently forgone makeup, and during Paris fashion week, she talked about how she realized that it wasn’t about her, it was about the clothes, so her getting her hair and makeup done didn’t matter. While this isn’t an incredibly groundbreaking, especially because she is Pamela Anderson after all, it did feel very genuine to me. Proenza in the same way doesn’t care about making clothing that is like something you’ve never seen before. They just make beautiful, good quality clothing, because they’ve earned it and they don’t have to prove themselves. Proenza is a cool girl brand and Pam is the ultimate cool girl, so I love this.
- Finally we have Jeremy Allen White for Calvin Klein. While I’m still here, I do think that choosing Jeremy as the new face of Calvin Klein was a good decision. This man has been working overtime to make this happen with all his shirtless hikes and random push up sessions. I’m never going to repeat this again, but… maybe I finally get it.
- The Renaissance tour might be over, but Beyoncé is still serving looks on Instagram. This custom Prada look is simple, but I think it’s cute. What really matters to me is the Prada logo right on the butt crack.
This custom Thom Browne, Clueless serve is also so cute! everything fits really nicely and I suddenly need a movie or show where all the students wear uniforms by Thom Browne.
Finally, this Missoni mini isn’t anything crazy, but that color is gorgeous and she looks like a Barbie. Missoni is known for using a metallic thread in their knits, and I like how this is given that same sheen through the use of the crystals. I also love these super long strings and how the jump cords ruche the dress. All these posts seem to be vehicles to promote Tiffany’s, though.
- Sabrina Carpenter wore a Victoria’s Secret 2001 runway piece for her NYE’s performance, and she looked incredible. That waist is snatched, and I like that they pulled something that feels very synergistic with her typical performance looks. She also paired it with a vintage Gucci jacket, and we have to stan.
- Charles Melton gave us a little, fresh off the runway Louis Vuitton Mens moment, and I’m not mad at it. Louis Vuitton is a leather house, so I like seeing this leather suit. The jacket and pants fit really nicely, and I like that it spices up a traditional menswear suit a little bit. I know I said I’m still not entirely sold on Pharrell’s Louis Vuitton, and I still stand by that, however, I did enjoy the sailor influence in some of these pieces.
- Margot Robbie isn’t done giving us some Barbie pink moments just yet! I didn’t love this Balmain collection, but this is also the collection where, like, over 50 pieces were robbed, so all things considered, it wasn’t awful. With that being said, I did enjoy the 50s and 80s influences seen throughout the collection, and I think this mini fits really nicely. The color match of the Manolo’s is also spot on. However, there’s something strange happening with the draping and the way the fabric pleats around the bust area— it just feels a bit messy. We also could have just gone with one rosette on the hip. The one by the bust area just gets lost and feels pointless if you can’t tell it’s there right away.
- Margot also wore Schiaprelli, and honestly, I like when Margot goes simple, because unless she’s channeling a character, like Barbie, she doesn’t really try and sell you the look. So styling her in things that speak for themselves and are just simple, nice clothes makes more sense. The tape measure detail on the neckline and the keyhole cutouts on the heels are enough of a little spicy detail for me.
- Carey Mulligan and Margot Robbie are both style by Andrew Mukamel, and I love that he pulled from the same collection for them, but still made each look make sense for the movie they’re performing. Carey plays Felicia in Maestro, and Andrew posted a photo of Felicia wearing a pearl necklace, which is why Carey is wearing one here. I think this is stunning. This look originally came down the runway with black capris, but for Carey a longer skirt has been made to make it more eveningwear appropriate. This feels a lot more polished to me and fits her beautifully. If I’m being super nit picky, I would have loved for the skirt to hit the ground perfectly, but the ankle length is fine.
- Emma wore Louis Vuitton, of course, and this robe she’s wearing is inspired by the Fall 2023 collection. Emma is quite tame in terms of her fashion, so I’m never expecting anything insane, and this is fine, but it’s not the best Louis Vuitton look I’ve ever seen. I feel like we’ve been seeing little nods to Bellas outfits in Poor Things with her press looks, and perhaps I’m reaching, but we started off with yellow and blue dresses, like Bella, and now we’re more in Bella’s brothel, education era.
- Emma also gave us a look from the Spring 2024 collection which was one of my favorites of the season; my love for Nicolas aside. The reason this is so great, is because these stripes are fully being created by beads. That is not a print, that is full embroidery. I’m drooling.
- I’m so obsessed with Lily Gladstone, you don’t understand. She’s also my new favorite fashion girl, and this custom dress based on Rodarte’s Spring 2024 collection is STUNNING. This beautiful emerald gown is fully beaded, and the compactness of the embroidery almost makes it look like it’s plush— it reminds of when designers will bake sequins into knits. It fits her perfectly, and the little peplum is sweet.
- I just don’t understand what Balenciaga is doing anymore. We’re going back to the craft, we’re still doing gimmicks, we’re putting big names in our clothes, we’re hoping you’ll forget about our scandal, but we’re so boring and doing such watered down versions of what we’re know for with Demna at the helm, and so all you can think about is the scandal.
- Cillian is typically quite simple with his fashion, but this is very, very simple. It is just a plain black suit, but I will say that it fits incredibly, and I do love a cummerbund moment.
- Julia Garner has been a fashion favorite of mine for years, and this JW Anderson mini is so scrumptious. It’s simple, but I love how it’s belted at the top, and feels like a you’ve just pulled a skirt all the way up. I was actually thinking about this dress the other day, randomly— our minds! I will say, I think she’s wearing a Gucci platform loafer, and I’m not obsessed with it here.
- Ayo Edebiri wore Marni, based on the Spring 2024 collection, where they did these sticker style flowers. We didn’t see them in blue on the runway, but this colorway is delicious. You already know Ayo’s a fashion girl, she’s always gonna serve.
- Rosemund Pike in this Molly Goddard dress is very important to ME!!! Spring 2024 brought us a lot of these inside out styles, and it just feels like a little love letter to the craft. The way the seems run across the bodice is scrumptious and I love the subtle drop waist. Then in classic Molly Goddard fashion, we have a lovely tulle skirt. I’m just obsessed.
- Not Prada’s best! It follows a trusty formula of theres in terms of silhouette and style, but these sequins are so messy— they feel out of place and are not seemless enough around the waistline. There also just appears to be too much fabric in the bodice, but I do love the rounded neckline and the train.
- Doja Cat in Luar Spring 2024 is so good. But, really, anyone wearing anything by Luar is so good.
So that was this week! Golden Globes looks are starting to pour in and I’ve already gasped multiple times.
TTYL!!!
xx