Jonathan Anderson For Dior Men, and other stuff
This Week In Fashion
MUCH to discuss this week! I’ve also been writing a lot— I have a spring appropriate (in my opinion) coming soon AND I’ve already starting working on my Met Gala explainer for this year. Honestly, good for me, because I literally wrote last year’s day of.
Anyway, let’s get into it.
Woah! Remember when I told you this rumor and that LdSS’s guest collection for JPG Couture was said to be the last one? Well, it’s true! Duran Lantink has been appointed as the new creative director of Jean Paul Gaultier.
Ultimately I do feel positive feelings about this. I think Duran is an incredible designer and I think he’s managed to create a very distinct world in a very short amount of time. He’s playful, he’s subversive, the way he uses silhouettes, colors, and patterns is very intriguing, and he has experience with deconstruction, reconstruction, and upcycling— all things that make him a perfect candidate for this position. He’s also the only emerging designer that we’ve seen appointed to a role like this amongst all the bigger names, which is very cool.
With all the being said, his last collection from his eponymous label did rub me the wrong way, and I do still feel weird about it. I did not need to see a male model wearing big rubber tits close an otherwise fabulous collection while everyone laughed. If you’re over it, that’s fine, and if, like me, you’re not, that’s fine too.
Regardless, it’s bittersweet that the guest designer collections are coming to an end, because they really were so good, but I also think they were a great palette cleanser and a great way to draw attention to the brand. I wish Duran the best; he’ll be doing both couture and ready to wear right away, so I’m excited to see what he delivers.
Jonathan Anderson has been announced as the creative director of Dior… Men?
This generally is not surprising news, as it is perhaps the longest rumor in fashion history, but the part that kind of made me go, “oh!” is the Men part. I, like everyone else probably, was under the impression that he would be taking over womenswear and menswear. To be honest, I still think that’s on the table.
Everything about this felt quite abrupt, as Bernard Arnault kind of randomly mentioned it at an LVMH meeting and then Dior confirmed it. Perhaps it’s because men’s season is in June, so there was only so long they could wait to announce, but. Also! The tea, which I’ve mentioned before, is that there seems to be some beef of the suing variety between Maria Grazia Chiuri and LVMH. Still, for now, she holds us in her firm grasp. Sigh.
Anyway, we’re all aware that this is a Jonathan Anderson stan account, so I will be firmly sat for that first collection. Jonathan is more than capable of handling Dior, whether it be all of it or just menswear. He obviously has a large reverence for art and an understanding of culture at large, which is why Loewe and JW Anderson are such buzzy brands, and it’ll be interesting to see how he translates that to a house with more defined house codes, especially because he has such a distinct voice.
- Billie Eilish for British Vogue; Love this very much. British Vogue was scaring me there for a second, but I feel confident saying that we’re back on track. Everything about this feels very Billie, and I don’t know if her and Taylor McNeil have worked together in the past, but if not, I think she should scoop her up as her personal stylist immediately— they make so much sense together. Styled by Taylor McNeil.
- Vogue’s The Met Issue; This is stupid good. I mean, really, each cover is so insane. I love everything about A$AP Rocky’s spread and Colman’s too, but that one shot in the blue Dolce is insane. Pwah! Styled by Law Roach, Ib Kamara, Eric McNeal, Max Ortega.
- GQ and Vogue’s Dandy Land; This is actually insane. All so different, all so dandy. I really can’t wait to see this year’s red carpet. Can I also just say that I am SO happy they didn’t have Annie Leibovitz shoot this. Styled by Law Roach.
- Margaret Qualley for i-D; Can I just say, I’m so happy that i-D doesn’t suck after Karlie got involved. LMAO. Anyway, this is very fun, very Sue. Styled by Spencer Singer.
- The CFDA partnered with Alta Moda which is an AI personal styling start up? Very scary stuff. Louis Pisano wrote a great newsletter about it.
- Justin Bieber started a new brand called Skylrk. Looks like YEEZY with more colors, idk.
- I’m not making this its own section, because it could be its own newsletter but I’m tired. I quickly just wanted to rant about the alleged Chinese factory workers on TikTok convincing you that your dupes are the same thing as all the luxury brand bags, but for a fraction of the price, and how you should give them your money instead. I bet you’d also give someone your social security number over the phone. Yes, luxury items are made in China, but your Hermès Birkin is not being made there. Maybe the zippers are, but that’s about it. Luxury brands have their own tanneries, they work with artisans, they get exotic leathers from Africa, etc. and ultimately are not the same as your DHgate dupes. If you can not afford something, do not buy it— you do not need it. Consumer culture has made us believe that we deserve to have everything regardless of any external factors, but I just think you all have shopping problems.
- Monse made the space suits for those ladies.
- Lady Gaga wore custom Dilara Findikoglu, custom Marni, and custom Matières Fécales at Coachella and it was all incredible and delicious. She also referenced two Alexander McQueen shows and some of her own looks. It was all so, so, so, good.
- Addison Rae wore Chloé and announced her album drop date on her underwear. I luv her.
She also wore this cutie little Miss Claire Sullivan for Victoria’s Secret PINK look and I die for her Minnie Mouse ass.
- It is so interesting to see how brands like Gap are leaning into custom, red carpet fashion. I mean, listen, it looks exactly like what custom Gap should look like, you know? I’m not expecting anything crazy, he looks good.
- People did not like this, but I think it’s a little freaky and fun. I thought there was something really striking about this being floor length on the runway, but showing a little ankle does make it feel a bit more daytime appropriate. The neckline is really delicious with how structured dit is and how this bow detail almost creates a harness.
- Wunmi is one of the most beautiful human beings I’ve ever seen, I think. Anyway, love this Hanifa dress! The color is really stunning, and I think the dimension added to the fabric adds some intrigue to an otherwise simple dress, while also strategically catching your eye.
- Loved Taïs Venolo in this Kira Zander look. The show she’s staring in is about ballet, and there’s something about this look that feels very warm up clothes, but make it fashion. Obsessed.
- The way I was GIGGLING. Acne Studio has been a little wonky recently, but that trompe l’oeil shirt makes me feel like i’m tripping in the best way. The shorts with the boots!!! I die. I die!
- I will leave you with JT in Prada being the coolest bitch to live.
So that was this week! OMW to watch Sinners.
TTYL!!!
xx