Jacquemus Spring 2026, and other stuff
This Week In Fashion
We haven’t had a week this uneventful in a long time, so she’s quick! Also! Michael Rider just made his debut at Celine a few minutes ago, and I can’t wait to share my thoughts with you next week, because I thought it was quite good! We all know I wasn’t a Hedi at Celine fan, so, I do love this for me.
Anyway, let’s get into it.
Jacquemus’ Spring 2026 collection was entitled Le Paysan or The Peasant. It was a collection based on Simon Porte Jacquemus’ family– generations of peasant farmers in the South of France, and was probably one of the best we’ve seen from the brand in a while.
At this point, I’ve repeated ad nauseam how much I miss old Jacquemus, back in the beginning when things were a little bit more daring, a little more architectural and experimental. This reminded me of that, but also with a softer touch. Materials were kept quite humble with a lot of cottons and linens often taking their shape as wearable table linens, headscarves, and aprons. Fruits and vegetables were made of leather and suddenly made me seriously consider if I needed a garlic keychain, while crochet made me think of the decor in my Polish grandmother’s home. A lot of skirts had beautiful volume and movement, typically balanced with a bare or flat backside. Stripes were nautical and colors, like yellows and light blues, felt ready to be charged by the sunshine. The pleating of jackets was quite lovely, almost feeling like they were creating their own collars. Then there were the two dreamy, jersey dresses– one in black and one in white– that felt like the perfect cocoons, and I can’t forget the finale gown, whose frayed edges and messily gathered train felt like it was deliciously unraveling and holding everything together just so. Don’t get me wrong, there were still moments that could have used a second look over and perhaps that could have been avoided altogether had the collection been tightened. But, as a whole, I did think it was nice.
I do think there is a way that this idea of peasantry can easily become cosplay, and while I don’t think this was that visually– it did feel personal and didn’t feel performative or like it was trying to be a costume– “peasant” can become an argument for authenticity or virtue. Porte Jacquemus noted that “People want specific things, they like discovering fresh things which feel French,” and so I think there is this idea of romanticizing Provencal dress. Almost a blurring of the real class history and labor, making it all a little more Marie Antoinette. So, it is a bit contradicting, because you can’t in good faith say that his memories are mythology, but at the same time, these clothes do appeal to a specific audience and Porte Jacquemus isn’t exactly the most radical or political. Here he’s selling you Frenchness as an escapist fantasy of a slower and simpler life.
- Lorde for Vogue Australia; I really like this! I think it’s very cool and very Lorde. I also feel like Vogue Australia makes the most sense out of all the Vogue’s for this current album cycle, you know? Styled by Christine Centenera.
- Alessandro Michele was on Fashion Neurosis and I love listening to him talks.
- A lot of big names for Donatella’s last Versace campaign. Even though Versace was getting a bit confusing, I’m gonna miss her POV.
- Jonathan Anderson went very J.Crew, Bruce Weber for Abercrombie for the Dior Spring 2026 menswear campaign. Very JFK jr. Interesting, but unsurprising. There was definitely that idea of perverse prep throughout that collection.
- Lorenzo Musetti is the new face of Bottega Veneta and wearing an intrecciato leather jacket as part of his tennis whites is actually so fab? Bottega and tennis— there’s definitely something there in the bourgeois of it all.
- Jason Bolden has been DRESSING Nicholas Hoult for this Superman press run. I’m eating up every look and cleaning my plate, tbh. Jason is one of my favorites when it comes to styling men. The Celine with the white tank and sweater tied around the shoulders made me lose my mind, actually. I saved that photo instantly. The big ass bags also make me laugh, because what is he carrying doing press?? What’s in the bag? Wrong answers only.
The Bottega and Burberry were also incredibly good. The lapel and collar on that suit jacket?!
This little western Prada was also very cute.
- The pleating on this is so lovely! I’m not crazy about the waistband, but it’s fine. There’s something about this that reminds me of past Prada collections and these very summery, white, cotton dresses. I’m assuming this is a chiffon, but it feels like the evening version of those day dresses.
- Not his best. This suit feels very stuffy and the way those pants break over and over at the bottom is awful. This is not what an Hermès suit should look like. I mean, those runway collections are effortless.
- One of MGC’s better moments. I don’t know why she waited till the end to give us some of her best looks. I wish it didn’t have that one band around the waist, but it is very beautiful otherwise. I also like how its longer on Rachel since she’s shorter than the model on the runway— it works better for me.
So that was this week! OMW to muse on that Celine collection.
TTYL!!!
xx