Jacquemus Spring 2025, and other stuff
This Week In Fashion
Quite the tasting platter of things to go over today! I’m including Jacquemus and Lanvin here because they weren’t technically on the mens fashion week schedule, and that post was already long enough!
Anyway, let’s get into it.
Showing a day before couture week is set to begin, Simon Port Jacquemus decided to dabble in a bit of couture of his own, by taking us back to the salons of the 1950s. Established and up and coming supermodels alike, came down the runway in large, structured silhouettes that channeled a different time, while still having been given a contemporary touch.
As I’ve mentioned in the past, early Jacquemus will always be my favorite, but I feel similarly about this season as I did about the last. Although both remind me of that earlier era, this one even more so, there’s still just nothing to run home about. It’s all been done before and not in the, everything’s been done before way, but in the, I’ve seen this somewhere else and I’ve seen it better. What I’m trying to say is that I much rather look at Schiaparelli, or Alaïa (update: apparently a designer from Alaïa actually works at Jacquemus now btw), or Margiela than this collection. Make no mistake, it’s a perfectly fine collection, and perhaps I just need to accept that Jacquemus isn’t where I come for something groundbreaking or innovative.
Standouts, to me, were the incorporations of sportswear. I’ve long thought that that is a strong suit for Jacquemus, and there's something actually compelling there. It makes me think of the very 1950s style dress that was custom made for Zendaya during the Challengers press tour. It was very classic, but then it also featured drawstrings that, again, incorporate that sportswear element. It’s intriguing when it’s playful, and I’d love to see more of that middle ground.
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The quality and attention to detail looked better this season, although that still continues to be one of my main qualms with the collections, this one included. Jacquemus is fantastic when it comes to its marketing campaigns or even when it comes to spreading rumors to keep people talking– rumors like that one where you were allegedly the top name in the Chanel creative director discussion. It’s smart. However, it becomes foolish when none of your collections warrant the quality or excitement that one looks for in the leader of a large luxury house.
While Jacquemus has mastered aesthetic allure, his collections seem to lack the bold risks that define transformative fashion moments. In the words of Valerie Steele, “Fashion must seduce, but it must also provoke.”
I’ve been waiting patiently for this one and my waiting was not vain. Peter Copping’s debut for Lanvin was one that earned its closing cheers and claps. Positioned between mens and couture week, the show set Copping up perfectly to show us what he can do with menswear, while also honoring Lanvin as one of the oldest couture houses. Not to mention making sure everyone is aware of his own couture skills– most recently seen at Balenciaga. Personally, I still think about his time at Oscar de la Renta, specifically the finale gown from Spring 2016.
Since the late Alber Elbaz’s time as creative director, it’s been hard to care about Lanvin, but now with Copping, a designer’s designer, holding the position, the brand is back in good hands. Beginning the show notes with a personal tidbit, he wrote, “Welcome back. This collection is deeply personal– an homage to Jeanne Lanvin’s world and her intimate sense of style. I sought to project the essence of her wardrobe today while imagining it on a cast of modern characters– which I hope you’ll enjoy to discover.” Enjoy I did!
Given that the collection had a focus on Jeanne Lanvin’s personal wardrobe, there was a lot of 1920s and 30s influence, like robe de style silhouettes, drop-waists, and art deco motifs. Signatures of the brand, like capes, bows, and the color blue were also present, however, like the notes read, everything was made contemporary and fresh. Fashion archives are a designer’s roadmap to understanding a house’s DNA. As Caroline Evans notes in Fashion at the Edge, "the archive represents a repository of ideas, not a set of immutable rules.” While looking to the archives can become a creative crutch, Copping uses the archives not as a static museum collection but as a living, breathing document. He extracts the spirit of Jeanne Lanvin instead of just putting on a pure redux of her wardrobe.
The couture level of craftsmanship, even on simple pieces, showcased the importance of quality and this ever growing emphasis on intentionality. Copping’s careful attention to construction and materiality reminds us of the importance of what theorist Elizabeth Wilson refers to as “the sensuousness of dress,” where texture, detail, and construction become a tactile experience. He has the ability to position Lanvin not as a relic of the past but as a house poised to lead the conversation about the future of luxury.
These Lanvin characters are grown and mature, not at all interested in appealing to fleeting trends. The challenge that remains is to prove that Lanvin is relevant to the masses. Yes, fashion professionals and fans alike will champion Copping, but will Lanvin be the buzzy new brand for people who more passively consume fashion? With his strategic positioning of this collection– rich in heritage but modernized for contemporary tastes– I definitely think so.
The rumors were true! Glenn Martens has been named the new creative director of Maison Margiela, and I am very excited!
From a subjective standpoint, I love Glenn’s work and would like just two seconds inside his brain, but objectively I also think this is one of those appointments that really just makes sense.
While I loved his work at Y/Project, Diesel (where he is still creative director), and even his eponymous label, I think he’s deserving of a larger, luxury, couture house like Margiela. Especially when we consider the label’s house codes, like deconstruction and reconstruction— something Glenn himself has greatly explored.
Anyway, all these recent appointments are setting us up for a stacked schedule of delicious debuts.
If you thought the most recent Dior Men collection felt very swan song, here’s your reason as to why. Kim Jones is stepping down from his position as creative director of the brand.
Although I was quite happy when he stepped down as creative director of Fendi womenswear, because it gave me heartburn more than not, this announcement is a little bit more sad. I loved his Dior Men— it was so enchanting and compelling. His Dior Men is how people will think of the brand for years to come. Regardless, I’m excited to see what’s next for him.
The rumor is that he’s headed to Burberry, with Daniel Lee headed to Jil Sander. Wild turnaround for Lee, lmao. Also! While Maria Grazia Chiuri is still, unfortunately, the creative director of Dior womenswear, we’ve all heard the rumor that Jonathan Anderson is leaving Loewe and taking over at Dior. If this is true, perhaps he’ll take on both womenswear and menswear. Only time will tell!
The final results of 2024 are in!
Hottest Brands:
Miu Miu— Miuccia holding it down all year
Saint Laurent— Up two!!!
Prada
Loewe
Coach- Up TEN
Bottega Veneta
Alaïa
Moncler
The Row
UGG— a new addition
Hottest Products:
Coach Shoulder Bag
UGG Classic Ultra Mini Boot
Miu Niu Fleece
Coach Cherry Bag Charm
COS Cashmere Sweater
Wardrobe NYC RHW Blazer Dress
SKIMS x The North Face 2000 Retro Nuptse Jacket
Charlotte Simone Coat
&Daughter Ada Cardigan
Massimo Dutti Penny Loafer
Interesting lineup for sure. See the rest here.
- Troye Sivan for Vogue Australia; I understand the direction Vogue Australia tends to take, but it often falls very flat. Here, however, the simplicity is so juicy and fresh. Styled by Kaila Matthews.
- Kendrick Lamar collaborated with Willy Chavarria for The Super Bowl. Very big, very good, very I love sports!!!! About the collaboration Willy said, “I partnered with Kendrick Lamar’s pgLang and the NFL because of the opportunity to reach an audience that feels familiar to me. We spent a lot of time on the fits and the vibe, and Kendrick tied in everything to get it spot on. Working with Kendrick is an important cultural moment for the two of us. We both have an unwavering voice when it comes to our people.”
- A profile on Alessandro Michele ahead of his first couture collection for Valentino.
- Luv a Miu Miu boy. I do wish the Sambas were a different color, if not a different shoe.
- I literally can’t with her. Like you’re JOKING. That color is stunning and she just looks so rich.
Also, this?! I love a fashion girl, UGH. I love Commission and this track suit turned evening look is so delish.
- Now we have THE fashion girl looking absolutely stunning in Saint Laurent. I really enjoy the full monochrome moment underneath the coat here, instead of the lighter version we saw on the runway. It makes it feel more red carpet, but also just makes more sense for the weather. Chic and practical.
- I mean!!! I’ve really been loving Keke’s styling choices recently, for the most part. This silk set has to be one of my favorites so far. It’s very classic American sportswear, as Sergio Hudson is wont to do, and the color is so dreamy.
- Oof. That leather’s lookin’ rough, and not in a hot, sexy worn down kind of way. It’s just strange, isn’t it?
- Now this Diotima dress? INSANE. Diotima is one of my favorite American brands, and Rachel Scott’s work with knits is always so stunning.
- Imagine him ever missing? I can’t find a clear photo so I have to go with this Instagram link because I can’t stop looking at how crisp he looks here. The tailoring on this Amiri look is insane and those colors work beautifully together. Y’all know I don’t usually love a bag on a red carpet, but I can’t be mad at it here— it even adds to the color story.
- I don’t know what it is, but I just always really enjoy seeing his red carpet looks. There’s always just such an easiness to them. I love the color of this Giorgio Armani suit, and it looks to be a velvet which adds a nice texture. Although it’s quite a loose suit, it’s still tailored very nicely.
So that was this week! Grammy red carpet looks are starting to role in, so see you tomorrow probably with a review.
TTYL!!!
xx