It's Christopher John Roger's World And We're Just Living In It, and other stuff.
This Week In Fashion
Resort season is in full swing, so we have quite a few shows to go through. Granted, designers are really on their own schedules, so there’s some fall and pre-fall collections sprinkled throughout. Other than that, this week’s newsletter is basically just a fashion review of looks from throughout the week.
I love Marni and how fun and funky the clothing is; fashion doesn’t have to be serious all the time. One thing about me, I love a Marni knit. You’re wearing a Marni cardigan? It will cloud my judgment, I will think I’m in love with you. Anyway, Francesco Risso takes classic, everyday styles and adds that Marni touch. These puddle pants and suit jacket, lined with some fuchsia silk adds a sprinkle of fun, and the girl boss skirt suits are good. I really need one of these dog scarves, and I also need this whole look, and this one, and this one. The impracticality of this styling screams a kind of privilege that I wish to have. Also, please zoom in on the stitching of this pocket, thanks.
The delicious nipped waists at Proenza Schouler are everything, and definitely serving a bit of 1940s, Dior New Look. I haven’t stopped thinking about this look; the jacket, the jogger style pant, the frilly sock, the bow-tie collar, the leopard print, snake skin shoes?! Sculptural skirts, given their shape with horsehair, were really lovely, and the shoulders of trenches were worn off-the-shoulder and un-buttoned. These fringe mini dresses(?) over pants were intriguing and I’m here for a burnt velvet moment. But what really stood out were the two knit dresses with sequins baked into the fabric; the shimmer was incredible. Overall, a cool little collection.
I love Glenn Martens at Diesel, and there’s nothing you can say that will change my mind. Well, I love Glenn Martens anywhere, but you know what I mean. I like that Glenn is continuing to play with denim in different ways, and I also love that the yummy metallic knits made a comeback. The leathers were hot and I’m obsessed with the trompe l’oeil thong moment on these jeans. There was a lot more cargo in this collection and also more “tailoring” as well. Yes, the Y2K trend is still evident, but I think Glenn shows that he’s capable of evolving with the trends and the house codes of Diesel in a way that will continue to feel relevant.
I want to be the Bode Pre-Fall 2022 model, but I also want to date the Bode Pre-Fall 2022 model. What a beautiful collection. Emily Adams Bode Aujla said that she loved dressing people for weddings, and that this collection explores the concepts of wedding wear and formal wear. Not only that, but she was also inspired by her partner’s culture and Punjabi traditions. The cut and tailoring of these pieces is to die for. All the lace, eyelets, linens, crochets, all feel perfect for a summer wedding and also feel very comforting. I die for this look, and this one, and all of them. I hate boats, but sign me up for all the sailor inspo.
I didn’t hate the Pre-Fall collection at Alexander McQueen, but I’m still missing the dram and theatrics of McQueen from Sarah Burton. Her earlier work was a lot more intriguing and I just want to know what happened? Still, there was some beautifully fitted suiting, and while I was into the asymmetrical draping on some pants, it didn’t work for me everywhere. Of course, it wouldn’t be a Sarah Burton collection without some kind of moto inspo, so there was some of that. I thought these two dresses were really beautiful, and while I don’t think the belting is necessary, these two dresses were also sweet.
Talking about Christopher John Rogers is the closest I get to fangirling. With that being said, this collection will be living rent free in my mind for a very long time, and I will more than gladly be paying her bills!!! With Karlie Kloss opening the show, you already knew you were in for a treat; I mean… you already knew that because it’s CJR. The delicious prism of color that came down the runway was filled with CJR signatures, but they were refined, they were grown, they were impeccable. This is someone who knows their customer and will deliver time and time again, while evolving favorites and keeping them from getting stale. Collection 10 was filled with the most fantastic tailoring, draping, and texture. Sweaters that were cropped in the front, had sweeping trains in the back, and skirts had the most insane draping; I mean look at this knotting alone! A little ruffled, pannier, peplum came down the runway, and although not evident here, bustles that the Met Gala could have only dreamed of also made an appearance. The whole collection had an air of Jean Paul Gaultier and Cristobal Balenciaga. But even though there was a lot of structure and deconstruction, there were also beautiful silk gowns that floated down the runaway. The Saville Row tailoring here with neon green stitch is *chef’s kiss*, and even the most casual looks were very chic. Although he’s a relatively new designer, CJR proves time and time again that he is not PLAYING; I mean, you already know a CJR look when you see one walking down the street. It’s him that we’ll be talking about in the future amongst names like Gucci, Chanel, Valentino, etc., mark my words.
When you think of Casey Cadwallader’s Mugler, you think of a very specific bodysuit, and that’s exactly what we got; no one’s surprised. However, in an interview, Casey did say that there are new things coming in the future. I guess until then I can live with his signature being a go-to as long as it stays fresh and interesting, however I will be waiting for whatever else he has up his sleeve. Overall, I didn’t think this was a bad collection. I really enjoyed seeing denim being used in the same, skintight way that his usual bodysuit is constructed. The inclusion of sheer tulle felt very Thierry Mugler, and I also loved the reference to Mugler’s SS1998 Couture collection with the little lucite accents. She’s cute, I’ll take it for now.
Jeremy Scott took us to the 60s for his Moschino Resort 2023 collection; it was very mod, very space age, very Pan Am. Oh, and it was definitely giving Cher. We know Moschino is over the top, camp, kooky, garish, and none of that is a bad thing. I think Jeremy does a great job at Moschino, but especially with these past few collections I feel like he keeps proving that, although he can do fun and funky, he can also give us beautiful, well tailored clothing. While everyone might not see themselves in full disco diva fantasy, they might be able to enjoy a beautifully fitted jacket with matching pant. I really love the trompe l’oeil sequins on certain pieces, and sequins shine, so using a shimmering fabric was a sweet touch. You might thing some looks resembled Pucci or perhaps Chanel, and I’m not here to go Diet Prada on you, I’d say that accusing anyone of copying is a stretch. In fact, Franco Moschino himself loved to poke fun at fashion with his clothing, and one of his favorite designer’s work to “interpret” was Coco Chanel’s. Anyway, I thought the different floral embroideries were lovely, and the crochet pieces looked like grandma took some shrooms and had a little bit of fun with her doilies; I’m into it. Also, how good were the shoes? Overall, this was a sweet little collection, and if anyone ever wants to make an Austin Powers reboot, I think this should be part of wardrobe.
- Jeff Goldblum for ES Magazine; I’m a simple girl, I see Jeff Goldblum, I experience joy. I don’t have crushes on people, let alone celebrities, but Jeff Goldblum is the one, he is my ultimate crush. Jeff eats all the fashion girls up, and I love that for him. You might recall him strutting down the Prada runway last season, so of course he sported some Prada here. The wasp-waist coat over the vinyl boiler suit is fantastic, and the second look with a 70s print turtleneck, that resembled the Ugly Chic collection, was just as good. The Missoni shirt paired with House of Waris pant was such great styling, and Jeff living his best Cheetah Girls fantasy was amazing; the look was a perfect way of clashing the same style of print. The green chenille pants and yellow top were giving lemon lime margarita in the best way possible, and the matching Loewe set was giving Palm Springs getaway. Overall, there’s little wrong Jeff can do in my eyes, but this is a great shoot. Styled by Andrew T. Vottero.
- Cher and Donatella said GAY RIGHTS!!!
- The way I had to search for a decent shot of these outfits. Anyway, Austin is wearing a simple, brown Gucci suit, and I think he looks great! We know I love a brown, and this suit fits really well. I love the slight flair of the high-waisted pant and the un-buttoned shirt. The color really goes well with the 70s styling of it all. Olivia is in Prada, and while it’s also simple, I think it’s great. I think the deep cut on the sides and the exposed back is the perfect amount of spice, and the undergarment feel of it is right up my alley, but she could be a little less wrinkly.
- Anne Hathaway let us have a break from PP Pink, and gave us PP Yellow. I mean, it’s a simple look, but I think it’s a fun, casual moment, and I like the shoe pairing. I also think that the dropped shoulder seam here works; it’s a nice touch.
- Olivia is wearing vintage JPG, and I think this is one of her best looks. I don’t think the dress is actually denim, but that’s what it appears to look like. I enjoy the silk center and the faux corset stitching and cone bra feel very JPG. The zip is fun and I like the cross halter. She’s not selling me on her fashion journey 100%, but I think this is a step in the right direction.
- I have many mixed feelings about this look. There is no doubt that Sydney looks incredible, it would be hard for her not to, but something about the pairing of the top and bottom is throwing me off. Miu Miu has been leaning into the school girl trend and the micro mini, so that all makes sense, but something about the top feels too disconnected from the rest of the look. We’ve seen a lot of belting on the skirts at Miu Miu, but this two clasp style makes me wonder if it’s something we can expect to see in the next collection. I love the skirt, I think it’s really cute, and if you look closely at the bra, it has the same crystal embroidery as the skirt; great touch.
- Zendaya wore vintage Bob Mackie to the Time 100 Gala, and she looked stunning. Law Roach really knows what he’s doing, especially when it comes to digging through an archive; he’s made it clear that vintage isn’t just a trend for him. This lattice work with green silk and velvet is really lovely, and creates a really intriguing hourglass sillohette from the front. Then when you look from the side and back, you cans see the darker green silk looking like more of a natural form style of the late 1870s to early 1880s. I also really enjoy the neckline, and how the two different fabrics almost look like the endings of ribbons, pointing up at the top.
- Florence Pugh has been on her punk rock shit lately, but while always having a bit of a feminine touch, I actually really enjoy this look for her. The lace is really gorgeous, and it fits her well. Whatever undergarment was chosen is working perfectly, because it looks invisible. I don’t mind the mesh glove, and the gold jewelry is fine; she’s attending a Tiffany event so I get it.
![Tiffany's Exhibit in London Opening Party [PHOTOS] – WWD](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/$s_!-0SL!,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fbucketeer-e05bbc84-baa3-437e-9518-adb32be77984.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F6fc7395b-8865-421e-bbfa-0afe6554b70f_800x1199.jpeg "Tiffany's Exhibit in London Opening Party [PHOTOS] – WWD")
- I’m blushing. He looks so good. The mesh Marine Serre top, under the leather jacket, paired with the plaid skirt? Absolutely.
- Kate Moss giving Rimmel London commercial realness at the Platinum Jubilee pageant.
- Priyanka rarely hits the nail right on the head for me, so I must give credit when credit is do. She chewed this Robert Wun dress so hard. It’s essentially just a black, formfitting, halter top with a lace up back, but then it’s surrounded by this incredible ruffle. She looks like a mystical, deep sea creature and I’m here for it. You also know I love an emerald against black, so that’s a lovely touch.
- If wedding dresses are the only way I’m going to get my Zac Posen fix lately, I’ll take it. Especially when said wedding dress is being worn by Julia Fox.
I’m obsessed with her.
- Harry Styles wore this little Gucci number last night with a white tank underneath, and I love. I really enjoy the rhinestone(sequin) cowboy meets track suit vibe, and the primary color scheme is great. Harry might be the only person as obsessed with fruit as me; I respect that.
So that was this week!
Well I’m going to go write out my summer fashion wish list. Let me know if you want to know what’s on it next week! I won’t gatekeep.
TTYL!!!
xx