Remember when I used to write full reviews of, basically every single show? Obviously, that is not sustainable, so instead, we’ll separate by city, include some of the full reviews I’ve done on TikTok, and finish with some extra random thoughts/standouts. Sound okay? I also talk about shows and stuff on TikTok in a more time sensitive way, before bringing everything here on the weekly recaps. With that being said, I do prefer the newsletter over the TikTok, and talk about a lot more things here than I do there, but she’s there if you want her.
Anyway, let’s get into it.
ALSO:
It was really interesting seeing Tommy Hilfiger’s world of prep, right after Willy Chavarria’s. Still a pretty nice collection, but obviously not half as perverse.
I’m not really looking for Ulla Johnson like that, but she sure is consistent and also knows how to fuck UP a crochet! I mean?!
Khaite is just so sterile to me. You might recall last season, I said Khaite is the brand for people who want their clothes to look good on Instagram, while Fforme is the brand for people who want their clothes to look and feel good in real life. It’s not terrible, but there’s absolutely nothing compelling or that makes sense about it to me.
Christian Cowan used Adobe Primrose technology for his finale look, and it was actually stunning and incredibly cool.
Ludovic de Saint Sernin usually shows in Paris, but he was in NYC this season, and collaborated with the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation. It was a strong collection, and the chainmail was done really beautifully.
Area is very good at exploring a very specific theme. The eyes were silly and fun, and although I understand flowers are basically a house code, I think we could have gone without them this season. It’s okay, we won’t forget you do them. The best had to be the pieces with these orb like cutouts, holding a large gem.
I like Coach and I think Stuart Vevers does a good job at the brand, but I was a lil bored.
Elena Velez is so, so, good, but everything outside of the clothing always bites her in the ass, because why are you like that.
RIP Puppets and Puppets )’:
Tanner Fletcher is so sweet and good.
The girls in the Wiederhoeft atelier continue to cut better than anyone else in the game.
The ‘HAG’ sweatshirt at Batsheva will forever be ingrained in my brand. Great show, even greater casting.
DIOTIMA!!!
ALSO:
Masha Popova makes me want to do drugs and play music in a field.
Sinéad O’Dwyer<3
Rodarte always strikes the perfect balance of eerie and romantic.
Chopova Lowena is such a special brand. Their clothing always feels like it’s an actual part of the model’s wardrobe. Everything they add to their universe always makes sense.
The last three looks at Roksanda knocked me out.
Erdem is just so!!!
Seeing Richard Quinn really go back to his roots with these last few collections has been such a delicious joy.
I need the finale puffer from Holzweiler in my life immediately.
Aaron Esh— the coolest.
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Just making sure you saw Prada and Marni.
The scarves at No. 21
I famously hate marble, so Roberto Cavalli was not for me this season.
Etro has been kind of peaking my interest lately.
Peter Hawkings just really understands Tom Ford.
Sunnei is never bad.
Versace was scary this season.
Missoni gave their stripe some really nice texture.
Bally was one of the best shows of the season, purely because the clothing was believable and realistic.
Jil Sander is the millionth brand to fall at the feet of the Phoebe Philo for Celine infinity dress. The shoulders of that green wool jacket were so deeply unserious, I’m obsessed.
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ALSO:
Andreadamo was SO scrumptious. That first suit? Are you joking??
Undercover was incredible. INCREDIBLE. The clothing always translates the message so beautifully.
I miss the old Acne Studios.
Nicolas di Felice at Courrèges has it DOWN. He knows how to make effortlessly sexy clothing, and it’s what the people want.
Balmain was really nice, I just sometimes feel like Olivier is doing too much all at once.
Rabanne did a really great job of bringing more ready to wear to its more fantastical pieces.
Guram’s Vetements is more compelling than Demna’s Balenciaga. Also, Anwar Hadid in the ‘Not Mom’s Favorite’ tee, PLEASE.
Yohji Yamamoto<3
Nina Ricci was a little more put together this season.
No one is doing it like Junya Watanabe.
Really liking the direction Louise Trotter’s Carven is going in, but I still think it’s funny that with her debut collection last season she said she didn’t want the clothes to feel niche or specific, but… they are?
Hermès, consistently good and underrated tbh.
Rae Kawakubo wrote, “This is about my present state of mind. I have anger against everything in the world, especially against myself.” in her show notes for Comme des Garçons, and I felt that.
Stefano Gallici’s Ann Demeulemeester is going well me thinks.
Duran Lantink is so fun, and I love that he’s building house codes so early.
The Valentino funeral procession hits different now that we know Pierpaolo is leaving.
Stella McCartney kind of ate this season. I liked seeing her reference her old work at Chloé.
The off-the-shoulder circle dresses finale looks at Coperni were a cute moment.
I didn’t make a Chanel video because I didn’t have the energy for that headache, but it wasn’t Virginie’s worst.
So that was Fall 2024!