Fall 2022 New York Fashion Week Reviews
This Week In New York
You guys!!! I’m actually starting this before the end of fashion week. How proud of me are you?!
Anyway, Christian Siriano jump scare aside, New York wasn’t all too bad.
I feel like NYFW gets such a bad rap, but where else are you getting this diversity and this amount of emerging designers? Oh, nowhere? Okay, got it. Let the girls live.
I have to say, my favorite thing about NYFW was Vogue Runway exposing all the anti-maskers in the crowd with their runway photos. Y’all better give this newsletter some hype so I can get invited next season and be messy. Kidding!
Monse was really giving Melissa Wood Health™ chic. The brand is no stranger to a sporty moment, and this collection definitely has a large focus on athleisure. I enjoy the knits, and while I like a cargo pant, I’m not sure I like a visible double button. The long sleeve dresses with a halter on top were actually nice, and have intrigued a styling concept for me. The girl shopping this collection has a workout class in the morning, is cooling off at the pool after, going to her friend’s wedding in the afternoon, and hitting the club at night; she needs an outfit that can be manipulated to meet all those needs.
Craig Green always makes me think that I would enjoy going on a camping trip. This is, of course, delusion! Craig mentioned exploring the idea of comfort and suffocation with this collection, and honestly I would love to be smothered by this look. The idea of pockets matching sleeve cuffs is also intriguing. The colors are, as always, spectacular, and all the textures were yummy. The transformability of the garments is also and interesting aspect, and his shows are just always a refreshing time.
Tanya Taylor was cute, not entirely for me, but I actually liked the rather eclectic styling. I always love a buttery yellow moment, and I like seeing thigh highs that are flat instead of having a heel.
Zimmerman creates some lovely, lovely pieces, but the styling in this collection feels overly busy at times. When you think Zimmerman, you probably think of a girl frolicking through a flower field in a very Alice, Through The Looking Glass way. But this girly knows how to do fall too; we’re swapping flower field frolicking for wheat field frolicking!!! Inspired by the zodiac signs, this collection really leans into layering pieces. I feel like skiwear is rising in popularity, and I can see a lot of these pieces fitting that vibe. Like I mentioned before, the styling just felt a bit much sometimes. Don’t get me wrong, I’m definitely a more is more kind of person, see example A, however even I have my limits. The 60s inspiration was really sweet and right up my alley. I also can’t get over this laser cut dress that has little zodiac signs hidden throughout!!!
Staud felt very on trend; it was fine. Loved a lot of the coats, and this look was delicious; I’m always open to a dress over pants moment. The bungee chord element is a consistent thing for the brand, and I like it sometimes, other times I’m kind of over it and bored. A handkerchief dress was quite nice, but this one really took the cake for me.
Helmut Lang was okay; quite minimal with some fun textures. I didn’t love this top; while I like the suit inspiration, I wish it would have chosen one set of straps. The folds on this jacket were kind of weird, but this vest was great. Also, the shearling was fantastic. Sign me up for a shearling choker ASAP.
Tia Adeola has been one of my favorite designers to watch, so this collection was exciting for me. I always appreciate a show with a message, and for this collection, Tia brought up the End SARS movement in Nigeria. There were dreamy looks galore, but not without a very clear message; pieces with, “You were supposed to protect us”, “Break down the gates!” and “Sorrow, Tears, & Blood” made their way down the runway. Tia’s normal, sweet but sexy looks were of abundance to those not wanting to make a political statement and was just as good. Overall, I really enjoyed this collection and loved how true it felt to the brand.
The Christian Cowan girl is ready to party; it’s New Year’s Eve all year long. Christian was inspired by the 80s and 90s, and incorporated modern touches to evening wear looks. The stand out looks for me were the black blazer and black dress with full feathered backs; the feathers added such a nice highlight of the shape. Some draping could have been cleaned up a bit and some ideas more refined. A half buttoned tweed suit was interesting but the deconstructed part was missing something. A sequin dress was sweet, and I loved how they got larger towards the bottom, but it could have been a bit fuller towards the hem. This was hot, but he one strand of crystals on the bottom threw off the symmetry. The finale ballgown was great, and this tee made me giggle. Overall there was, like, a lot of sequins, but it was a fun time; just needed a bit of editing.
Proenza Schouler was super cool and sleek, but with feminine elements that offset the sharpness. I enjoyed this collection. The styling was very Phoebe Philo, and we all know Phoebe will have all the girls in a chokehold until the end of time. There was a lot of strong tailored looks, and I enjoyed the billowy skirts and dresses. I’ve really been trying to get into flats lately, because I rarely meet a flat that I like, but the molded flats in this collection are peaking my interest. Speaking of footwear, red shoes seem to be a think this season. I really loved this coat, and the liquid sequins were lovely. The pops of color and animal print were fun, but I didn’t like the black floral puffs all that much.
I adore Elena Velez. This collection and the styling of it were so pleasing to look at. This collection was a celebration of women and their different forms of femininity, and there’s no one more perfect I can think of to explore that idea in this way. The materials of the clothing look so delicate and soft, but they’re so tough. These looks are so sensual and romantic, but manage to hit you with a gust of wind so sharp. This woman smells like rose water and tobacco. Obsessed with this, and this, and everything! Also!!! The styling of a g-string to cover a breast? Are you joking?! Ugh, I just want to wear these clothes and feel like a little Victorian doll that is ready to throw down if you fuck with her.
Jason Wu was pretty, is it is wont to be. I am not this customer, but there were definitely pieces I really enjoyed. I loved the moiré puffer coat, and the yellow strapless dress of the same fabric was beautiful; suddenly I want to be in my ladies who brunch era. I didn’t love the tweed with asymmetrical fringe, and the tulle was boring, but the tie-dye flower printed pieces were fun. This brown satin look was lovely, and I really enjoyed these two moments; the fit was great. Overall, she’s cute.
Inspired by Black Girl, Victor Glemaud leaned into his signatures and delivered a minimalist, monochrome collection, of lovely jersey dresses and knits. “I wanted this collection to be a celebration of body and shape, but most of all a celebration of Black women,” said the designer. It was a simple collection, but not everything has to be over the top to be good. Fur was also on the runway, and while Victor isn’t the only one still using fur, many brands are turning towards faux. Victor discusses how fur has a long history in black culture, and people shouldn’t be scared of being canceled for using it. The discussion around fur is definitely a tricky one, but I think his argument is a strong one. For a long time, wearing furs was seen as aspirational; something only wealthy white women were seen wearing. Now that more minorities are able to afford furs, it’s suddenly going out of style. Listen, I’m a vegan, but I still wear fur; don’t come for me, I buy it second hand. If you care about the planet and about animals, I should remind you that faux fur is plastic, and we all know plastic essentially never leaves this planet. If you want to save the planet, and still have a planet for the animals you love to live on, maybe rethink your “sustainable” purchases!
The Maisie Wilen lookbook stressed me out, but from what I can tell, I enjoyed the collection for the most part. I can see Hunter Schafer eating this collection up. The models were modeled after characters from Monster High, and since I am somehow an adult, I don’t own any of those dolls, but like, I wouldn’t mind also being one. The vinyl moments looked great, and this matching set was so good; it was equal parts futuristic and 1960s. I enjoyed the bodycon dresses and bodysuits as well.
It’s time… we’re discussing Christian Siriano. His show notes read, “What is real anymore?” To that I answer, hopefully not this collection! Christian always tries to do so much without actually doing anything at all. This being one of the best looks of the whole collection should tell you all you need to know. Comparatively this dress also isn’t that bad, but with that being said, it’s not that impressive, it’s boring, and it would have looked better if the buttons went all the way down. The latex leather looked like the fabric had been picked up from Michael’s clearance rack, and the hemlines of the dresses made me choke. The pleather of this dress looked phallic, and not in the good way. The bolero sleeves felt unnecessary, a lot of the skirt lengths felt off, and who wants to button their blazer to their dress? WHO?! As if a bubble peplum wasn’t bad enough, it was made asymmetrical! Also, not to be Diet Prada, but Nensi Dojaka better get her check for every sale this look makes. Christian has also been accused of copying Valentino in the past, to which he replied saying he would be firing that designer; did her fire them though, because I’m still getting some Zara does Valentino looks. Overall, not a fun and funky fresh time. I know Coco Rocha is besties with Christian and always walks his shows, but friends don’t let friends embarrass themselves!!!
Kim Shui was flirty and rough. Overall I enjoyed the collection, although there were some looks that could have been edited. The sheer black tops with embroidered dragons were the star of the show, and sequin floral dresses were lovely. Tweed seems to be big for fall this season, but designers seem to be playing with the deconstruction and sexiness of it instead of just going with the traditional Chanel look. The colors were fun and I liked the fur trim on a lot of the pieces.
Saint Sintra is the perfect display of quality over quantity. You don’t always need a 94 look show to prove that you have range. Whether it be the pleated and tulle high-low skirt that is beautifully deconstructed (she has body, she has bounce), or the silk off-the-shoulder dress with sensual buttons going down its back, the clothes manage to be inviting but with a bite; I, for one, would very much like to be nibbled. I’m obsessed with a pair of perfectly structured bloomer shorts, and a tweed jacket that looks like Joan of Arc’s armor made me gasp. I’ve also never wanted to cosplay as string cheese more in my entire life after seeing that white, tiered dress.
Brandon Maxwell knows who he is, and always puts out collections that have nice, wearable clothes. Do I raise and eyebrow sometimes, sure! But hey, the man knows his customer. This collection was especially personal, inspires by his childhood, and playing dress up with his sisters at his grandmother’s house. The crushed satin was really lovely and the knits were great. I’m especially intrigued by the idea of a knit ballgown; cut to me wearing this at a ski lodge. The hemlines of skirts and dresses were really, really lovely. Little bow belts were leaning a bit too close to MGC territory but I’ll pretend I didn’t see those. The finale dress was adorned in flowers from a painting that Brandon asked his grandfather to paint in honor of his grandmother.
Eckhaus Latta was just super cool ready-to-wear with some spiciness and fun. This season the brand seemed to go a little deeper in exploring their signatures and building on them. There was some really lovely handiwork on tailored looks, but not without eroticism. Delicious fabrics and hot cutouts added interest. Tie-dye moments in light airy fabric had multiple pieces but all seemed to flow into one. The knits were really great, and I’m obsessed with this coat. The only thing that didn’t really hit for me where the brown knit looks with orange frilly trim. While I’m into the science experiment-like detailing, the looks overall fell flat.
Area DELIVERED! She’s a showgirl, she’s on her way to carnival, she’s starting her Las Vegas residency, she’s at the ball in Romeo and Juliet except the movie is being directed by the Euphoria girlies. Area is known for their crystals, glitz, and glam, and this season they’re really leaning into it. While the buckets of crystals and sparkles were enchanting, it was the voluptuously padded gowns that caught my eye. I really loved the way the curves of the hips carried the same shape up to the shoulder; wearable art pieces. Simon Biles’ Met Gala gown hit just as good making its second appearance, and also stunned in a rainbow rendition of the same crystal feather motif. One crystal look was giving iced out spinal column, and my scoliosis is still jealous. The feathers were insane, maybe could have been a little more blended, but either way snuffleupagus could NEVER!!! Metal headpieces and jewelry were also a really lovely addition to the crystals. Area’s ready-to-wear is always fun to see, but I’ve been loving seeing their journey into couture so much; the craftsmanship is worth your attention.
Carly Mark of Puppets & Puppets makes clothing that she and her friends actually wear. Compared to collections of the past, this one is more wearable and less fashion over function; not that it was lacking in fashion. I think Carly is going in a really great direction by staying true to herself, while creating clothing that might appeal to a larger audience. The hip cutouts here were the most delicious, little sensual touch, and the lobster tail bow on this dress had the best bounce. Knits were fun, colors were witchy, and prints were silly. The swirl on this top reminded me of putting glitter glue in the same shape onto a piece of paper before sticking something on it in my elementary school years; luv. Also can someone wear this to prom or homecoming or something.
While I loved being taken through the rainbow at Sergio Hudson, the show fell a little flat for me. His suiting and tailoring is, of course, beautiful, and the silk corseted looks were headed in the right direction, but the fit on some looks felt like it was a bit too bunchy. I also felt like the show was very early 2000s, but more in a dated way, and not in a revival way. I love seeing Sergio expand his range and explore more beyond his signatures, so I’m sure the future holds some more refinement; I really hope to see more hot knits. I know for a fact, the OG Gossip Girl would have scooped this collection up; Blair and Serena would eat.
Although everything is still not for me, I think I’m becoming more and more of an Altuzarra girl. I definitely saw a lot of elements from the previous collection, which was a nice continuation; I’ve loved seeing their tie-dye pieces and knits. The story of the collection was a sailor being seduced and turned into a mermaid, which is evident in the earthier, cozier looks turning into shiny, sequin ones. The fullness of the sequin dresses was what I was looking from at Christian Cowan. There was also military flairs that callback to the designer’s OG collections. The motif of this dress was really stunning, and balaclavas are in fact going strong! Overall, I really love this journey for Altuzarra, and also for me!!!
Batsheva is one of the few modern day designers that really scratches my vintage lover itch. They get it. It’s been so fun to see Batsheva Hay evolve her touch on the classic prairie dress into practically every article of clothing to exist. Batsheva listened to the comments of what her consumer was looking for, while still staying her quirky and cute self. This, this, and this, were the winners for me, and I need them in my closet immediately. I lover her quilted grandma vibes, and dreamy velvets. There was so many sweet sets, and fun fabrics. We love.
Khaite is that cool girl, model-off-duty, IYKYK brand that the girlies are wearing. I’m indifferent about it; there’s good and there’s bad. Some proportions in this collection were very strange, though. The brand centers are essentials and classic fabrics, and they’re not trying to be anything they’re not. However, this collection did bring a lot more outerwear and larger pieces. Me thinks Carolyn Bassett-Kennedy would be a Khaite girl.
Caroline Herrera was a gorgeous, gorgeous girl, but I think she’s still figuring it out a bit. To start, we had references to Herrera herself, with the iconic button down shirt and belted ballgown skirt; it’s a classic. Full, balloon sleeves, another element she was a bag fan of, made an appearance as well. The structure of this asymmetrical neckline was actually quite lovely and I enjoyed how the same color carried down into the skirt. There were a few dresses with frilled slits that fell a little flat to me, because all I could think about was the Loewe ones that had an actual leg hole. Breast cups had a lot of play with proportion, and I’m not exactly sure whose bust this is supposed to flatter? However, a floral collage of a dress played on the neckline as well, but here it worked; adding to the collage effect. There was good tulle, bad tulle, and we’ve seen it before tulle. A jumpsuit and bow details didn’t really do anything for me, but this dress was refreshingly stunning.
Markarian said, bring back the WASP socialite!!! I don’t completely hate her. Not everything was for me, but there were some lovely moments. A satin coat with an embroidered cityscape, an open skirt dress with peek-a-boo bloomers, a sequin and burned velvet strapless dress were winners. I’m fickle when it comes to high-lows; I hate this one, but I love this one. Moiré dresses also seem to be big this season, as well as fun bust areas. An argument for paisley was also, kind of, low-key made; kind of. She’s just a girl that wants to look pretty and feminine, and ask you where you summer!
Growing up, Coach wasn’t that cool anymore for people my age, and it’s been really interesting seeing the brand become more and more popular all over again. The same way it appealed to the young Y2K crowd, it is now catered towards the young city kid. The styling is fun, and Stuart Vevers’ shearling is not lacking; neither is Bonnie Cashin’s signature closing. While most of the collection would interest the Zoë Kravitz’s of the world, a section of crochet and lace baby dolls played more towards the Zooey Deschanels. Shearling skirts and loads of leathers were also very nice, and graffiti, a difficult print to master, was done right.
Listen, I’m not a Tory Burch girl, but some points were made. I really liked the overall athleisure meets casual wear blend; whether we’re working from home or going out to run a quick errand, it definitely reflects the way we’ve been dressing over the pandemic. There was a lot of lovely outerwear and the tapered pants were nice. This section of dresses was really great, but I wish at least one would have been shown without a belt. This dress however, a mess. I’m also not sure we need the skinny scarf to make a comeback.
Oh, how I love Maryam Nassir Zadeh. It’s becoming less and less common for designers to design for the actual NYC human. While we love a fantasy and we love something that makes us take a second or third look, it’s nice to see everyday clothing that warrants a bit of a gasp; that’s what Maryam does. The clothing and styling all has a purpose, it’s been thought out, it isn’t done just to look nice; although it does. The styling of a skirt over pants is still going strong as one of my favorite things this season, and the layering different proportions is fun. Immediately figuring out how I can recreate this and this with things in my wardrobe. Also, this made me think of every Russian ballet teacher I’ve ever seen; not a bad thing!
The LaQuan Smith girl is the hottest bitch to live, but you already knew that. I’m going to be thinking about this moment for a long time. Also, this is all one piece; INSANE! I can’t lie, a little bit of editing could have been beneficial. This look would have been perfection if it weren’t for the loose sleeves; they ruined the vision for me. The waist here is great, but I’m not sure this itty bitty top needs any boning. There’s no denying that LaQuan knows how to do sexy. With sequins, minks, leathers, and skin, the collection definitely just yelled at everyone to bring back Studio 54. Little clothes with big outerwear embody NYC nightlife. Yeah it’s cold, but I’m still gonna look hot. The clothing is very much taxi, club, taxi, apartment.
We’re not done being hot girls, it’s time to talk Dion Lee. Something really interesting about this collection was all the eye-hook fastenings; what a great way to add versatility to the clothing pieces you’re investing in; in an age where fast fashion won’t stfu and leave us alone, it’s really great to see clothing that is multi-wear, and might open up peoples minds to the fact that wearing something more than once is actually, like, okay (shocker). A leather butcher apron jumpsuit offset by delicate lace gloves was fantastic, and jockstrap masks were a fun time. Micro mini skirts with shearling coats and cutout braided knits were great, and I really enjoyed the idea of a puffer skirt. It’s all very polished kink. Very Dune takes modern day NYC nightlife.
Wasn’t super into Bevza this season, but she had her moments. The large buttons resembling wax seals, the popcorn maxi dress, and these fish scale looks were winners. The best thing about Bevza is the craftsmanship and all the small details put into the pieces.
We all know the textiles and craftsmanship at Gabriela Hearst are fantastic; this collection was no different. Knitted cashmere sweaters were lovely, crocheted knits were fantastic, and the graphic moments were beautiful. Although not as much, Gabriela is still using gemstones and rocks; a nice touch, and the lace sides of this dress actually added a very nice silhouette to the leather. Often inspired by the earth, her collections are always interesting to inspect.
PH5 is always such a fun time. Known for their knits and their signature hemlines, this collection explored some more textures and shapes! While their fabrics typically look heavy, there was a lightness to this collection that was refreshing to see. Sheer cardigans, trims reminiscent of organza, and catsuits were a great reminder that knits are not one-dimensional, and neither is PH5.
I won’t lie to you, I’m running out of steam; I’ll plan my time writing these better next week. So Anna Sui said more, is more, is more!!! Very 20s meets 60s meets 90s. It was a journey. Did I like it? I’ll let you decide!
Interior was really lovely. The crinkled silk, the netting, the SNATCHED waist. We love. The final look was stunning. The brand embraces chaos and makes it beautiful.
I might be running out of any fashion related thoughts, but they come in heavy streams when discussing Peter Do. Throughout the past seasons, it was evident that Peter was exploring different directions, but with this collection we’re back to who Peter Do really is. While the color palette was minimal, the cuts and tailoring provided maximal satisfaction. Please take a moment to look at the inside of the clothes over on @eljosecriales. This collection feels so easy to wear and welcoming of everyone. It’s incredibly chic, and it’s not doing the most; it’s just right. These pleats were insane, and these long lapels worn as a top were hot. Overall, it felt so nice to see such a personal collection from Peter, and I can’t wait to see more.
Yeah, yeah, I know I’ve shit on Michael Kors’ clothing in the past, I still wouldn’t say I’m his customer, but that doesn’t mean I can’t give credit where credit is due. Although I am not the customer (most of the time), Michael definitely knows who is, and she’s living her best Michale Kors life! She has a business meeting, she’s got brunch with the girls, she’s got a broadway show to see! In the same vain as Brandon Maxwell’s collections, these are clothes that aren’t trying to be anything they’re not. I always enjoy seeing Michael do a sequin, and these scarves are truly everything to me.
Jonathan Simkhai was fun and playful for fall. These sequin looks are insane. The knits were nice and the fringe beading was cute.
Prabal Gurung was another pretty, pretty girl; not entirely up my alley but I can appreciate why someone would love these clothes. Except this, I don’t get that. This coat was scrumptious. An embroidered blazer and coat were especially lovely. I also really enjoyed seeing the blend of Prabal’s two homes; New York and Nepal.
If you’re a minimalist who doesn’t like to have a good time (kidding), I’d look away, but if you’re like me, you’ll love Collina Strada. The clothing might seem silly, but it is always so well done. This isn’t just a random draw of fabrics out of a bag, it’s thought out. There’s definitely a Y2K vibe to this collection, but done the Collina Strada way. I just love a reminder every once in a while that fashion doesn’t always have to be that serious.
Pia Davis and Autumn Randolph of No Sesso delivered a great collection, influenced by their experience as Black women. There was a lot of fantastic upcycled moments, one-shoulder moments with cargo elements made many appearances. I feel like this collection has a lot more wearable pieces for the every day person, while still upholding the brands sexy and deconstructive vibe. Whether it’s the gorg dripping chains or peek-a-boo nipple, there’s always a sensual element, even when balanced by full denim looks and lovely knits.
Oscar de la Renta’s making more of those sheer floral dresses is actually what I needed to get me through writing this newsletter; they’re so fucking hot, I need more. It was also interesting seeing that same floral idea used in a knit; I didn’t hate it! Checkerboard moments were fun, and I think I’m in the majority that is reminded of Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton with these looks. The colors were really lovely, and I feel like Oscar de la Renta is trying to transition from ladies who lunch to the Gen Z/Millennial crowd; it’s getting there. This jacket was a fun time, this body hugging empire waist skirt was lovely, and this dress reminded me of the dress equivalent of McQueen’s armadillo shoe.
While the actual articles of clothing at Bach Mai weren’t groundbreaking, the colors and gradients were breathtaking. It’s evident that brand is still figuring out what its signatures and direction are, but I think this is a strong start.
Marc Jacobs said NYFW ends when I say it ends! Honestly, this collection made me happy that I didn’t finish writing this when I planned to finish writing this. The collection consisted of ten looks that brought the gothic romance. The luxuriously deconstructed vibe was a dream that felt very relevant. The new Marc Jacobs monogram also makes its appearance in a tasteful way, and elements from last season also make a comeback; one of them being the puffer coat, now also as a cape and a vest. @hautelemode mentioned that the puffer was reminiscent of Norma Kamali’s iconic ‘sleeping bag coat’ and I couldn’t agree more; I immediately thought of André Leon Talley when I first saw it. Overall, a great reminder to never sleep on Marc Jacobs.
And that’s all folks! I apologize for being void of even one singular opinion towards the end, but I really just needed to finish this and I was losing my mind.
Anyway, let me know what your favorite and least favorite collections were, I’d loveee to discuss. Okay, time to start on London, because I clearly I wasn’t managing my time as well as I thought I was with this one.
You already know what I’m about to say, respectfully. I am not proof reading all of this. Self care or whatever. Also, I don’t get paid for this so I do what I want.
TTYL!
xx