Sorry she’s late, I’ve been fighting a cute little depressive episode haha, and more things happened this week than I realized. Since we’re in the middle of awards season, there’s also tons of silly little events to which celebrities can wear silly little outfits, so, much to discuss!
Oh also! I finally changed the name of this newsletter. If you’ve been here from the start, you’d know it was originally a fashion and health/wellness newsletter, because those are my two niches, but I quickly realized I only wanted to talk about fashion, so the name no longer really made sense. Then Alessandro left Gucci, and I felt like it lost all connection to me. I figured, well, I do have a tattoo of one of Lee McQueen’s designs on my arm, so let’s play with that. And here we are!
Anyway, let’s get into it.
Recently on TikTok, there was a video going around where someone says that Issey Miyake wasn’t flattering. They also made it sound like Pleats Please was the only thing Issey Miyake had to offer, which is obviously not the case. I found it interesting that the clothing wasn’t flattering to her, since its main focus is the body, and the way the body looks, just, naturally! They mentioned that the clothes might work on a man or someone more boxy, but not on a women. The pleats also expand and contract as the wearer moves, which is why you’ll often see runway shows for the clothing where models are dancing, running, jumping, etc.
I don’t like describing something as flattering and unflattering, because it implies that there is a right and wrong. It implies that there is one way someone should look and present themselves. As we know, the beauty standards we are so often fed, are typically very Eurocentric and not very inclusive. I'd also say that dressing based on what is considered “flattering” can stifle your journey in discovering your personal style, because it might make you shy away from unconventional pieces that appeal to you. As someone who grew up struggling with body image issues, I went through a period of time when I felt like I was lost when it came to my personal style, because I thought my body had to look a certain way in my clothes, and a Pleats Please garment was one of the first things that got my out of my rut.
This also reminded me of an amazing article on The Cut that I highly recommend you give a read!
Anyway, wear whatever makes you feel good.
- Julia Roberts for British Vogue; No one was ever doing it like Edward Enninful but he really was like, I’m gonna make sure y’all miss me! The styling is simple, but there’s a 70s glamour about it, and it makes me feel like I’m looking at the set of a Tom Ford film. Styled by Edward Enninful.
- Barry Keoghan for GQ; Not the most groundbreaking GQ editorial I’ve ever seen, but it’s cute. Of course, the mission to put every man that does an editorial into a tank top continues. Also, imagine if they put the JW Anderson pigeon clutch on the other shoulder. Styled by Taylor McNeill.
- Harry Styles has invested in the brand S.S. Daley (who showed a fantastic menswear collection shortly after the announcement). While Harry is no stranger to wearing the brand, we all know he was a loyal Gucci boy and had a very close relationship with Alessandro Michele. We haven’t seen Harry out and about much since Alessandro’s departure as creative director, but I wonder if we can expect S.S. Daley to be his new go-to brand! It’s always interesting to me to see which celebrities seem to have relationship with certain houses, whereas for others it’s more about the creative director.
- Required Reading: A profile on Sabato de Sarno ahead of his Gucci Fall 2024 Menswear show. Interesting to hear about the brand and the direction he’s taking it from his point of view. Also… there was some shade.
- Diana Ross is the new face of Saint Laurent, because duh. THE BOSS! Honestly, it’s about time. Diana has a history of wearing the brand and was friends with its founder. She also wore a Tom For for Saint Laurent dress to the Met Gala in 2003.
- Whoever put Reneé in Christian Siriano… I just wanna talk. The top is a piece from the Spring 2024 collection, and it wasn’t any better on the runway. While I do enjoy plays with underwear as outerwear, this corset doesn’t really feel like it knows what it’s supposed to be doing. The sleeves are too long, and the overall construction of the jacket seems poor. There’s also puckering in the skirt, and I don’t see what we had to cut it on the bias AND add a slit. I feel like the pink and black sating was perhaps a reference to a dress Caddy wore in the original movie, but it’s a rough one.
- Megan, on the other hand, look so hot. This iridescent purple is beautiful and I love the stones lining the neckline. There seems to be a bit of godet action happening in the mermaid silhouette, and we know I love a good godet. My one complaint is the mesh panelling in the front— it’s not the right color match, and takes you out of the fantasy!
- Bebe Wood in Collina Strada was so fun to see! The velvet corset fits beautifully and the draping of the skirt is unhinged in the best way. I don’t know if this was a Wednesday, but with the bits of chiffon hanging down, she is wearing pink. I will say, I feel like the green velvet choker could have been black, you know, to makes sense with the rest of the look.
- Barry Keoghan in Stella McCartney is so good? This is a womenswear look from the Spring 2024 collection, and I love the way it’s been styled on Barry. The pants are tailored beautifully, and the jacket have a waistcoat feel is intriguing. I also love the addition of the ruffled shirt underneath, because it reminds me of period dress.
- I know a lot of people didn’t like this look, but I think she looks like a chic little tamale. Listen, Proenza is a cool girl brand, and Ayo is a cool girl. I’ve enjoyed seeing her play with more toned down styles that still have a bit of quirk, juxtaposed with the more fun pieces she chooses, like the Marni flower sticker dress. Anyway, she looks lovely.
- I want you all to remember this moment the next time you complain about Emma wearing Louis Vuitton. Listen, my bias aside when it comes to Kim Jones’ Fendi, this is just not good. The top isn’t a huge issue for me, I think it’s quite compelling, but the skirt? What’s happening there? It’s a wrap skirt, but it’s also pleated and hiked up, and I’m confused. Like with the Fendi look we saw Greta Gerwig wear to the Golden Globes, it takes something that doesn’t have too much going on and over designs it.
- FINALLY! Something different from Miss Flo. This is stunning. There were three of these fully beaded and embroidered dresses in the Spring 2024 collection, and they were the stars of the show. We also saw Lily Gladstone wearing a custom dress based on these quite recently! This is tailored incredibly, and this pink color is sweet. With its embroidery, light color, and Florence’s hair, it feels like a contemporary take on Marilyn’s naked dress. The cross halter with flower in the center is very Rodarte and you know I unfortunately do like a peplum. Rodarte is a very feminine and romantic brand, but they also lean edgy and dark sometimes, which makes them feel like a great brand for Florence and her personal style. Don’t get me wrong, I love Valentino too, I just wish she changed up what she wore by them more often.
- Well, not as good! I’m not mad at the idea of this— it’s more so the execution. On the runway, the pants were lower waisted and a bit more fluid. Whereas on Florence they’re more structured and have been made high waisted, which is fine, but there’s sooo much creasing. Like, it’s even breaking up the intentional front crease.
- Her cheekbones are as high as her shoulders and I’m here for it. This look is so hot, and I’m so happy to see a look from the Bottega runway, because the custom pieces we’ve been seeing have been beautiful, but haven’t had that same fun that we see on the runway. These skirts were inspired by mermaids, and almost feel like a contemporary take on an itty bitty pannier. Stunning.
- Fun! I loved the outerwear version of these looks in the Spring 2024 collection, because there something about outerwear and accessory felt more compelling than the shirt looks we saw in the prior collection. However, this t-shirt dress style being given the same treatment is also most pleasing to me, because I feel like purse and going out look is also compelling.
- Roses for Rosamund! I love Erdem and think the brand has a very clear vision, however this dress, while stunning, does fall a little short for me. It’s tailored impeccably and the flowers are deliciously placed on the dress, but there’s not flowers on the back of the bodice, which feels silly since they go all around the skirt. Regardless, I like that Rosamund often goes for brands that are very pretty and sweet, but opts for pieces that are a little cooler than the obvious choices.
- I was just raving about her inside out Molly Goddard dress, and now we got the Simone Rocha too?! While this wasn’t my favorite Simone Rocha collection, I did love these sheer, floral pieces. I also love the way some of the petals have fallen, so you can see them by the hemline. However, I couldn’t help but notice that her dress has less roses than the one on the runway! A rose is not a cheap flower, I suppose.
- You guys, please, why are we seeing so much Givenchy now?! Anyway, I like this! Sure, it’s a simple black suit, but again, Andrew shows us that you don’t have to do much to make traditional menswear a little more interesting. Not only does this entire look have a glittery sheen, but if you look at the seams and lining, they’re actually sequined!
- Hedi Slimane’s Celine tends to be quite simple, which doesn’t have to be a bad thing. This asymmetrical, off the shoulder moment feels very architectural and makes sense with the structured column gown. However, since it’s so simple, you really want it to be crispy, and there’s a bit of puckering in the pelvis and waist. It’s also just not as interesting as the Golden Globes gown she wore recently, so it’s hard not to compare.
- Now this is scrumptious. It’s a simple black look, but it’s fitted to perfection, and we have that same mermaid style skirt that we saw Greta wearing. The different textures here make it a little bit more intriguing, and I like that the shoe has a bit of a satin sheen, so that it ties in the corset. I also just really enjoy when we see looks that aren’t pulled directly off of the runway, but instead do a little bit of mixing and matching.
- This is what you wanted instead of the Barbie looks?! I’ve mentioned before that Margot and Carey have the same stylist, and here they’re both wearing Celine. Although there is obvious, intentional ruching in the bust, I don’t think that’s also supposed to be happening at the waist where the skirt begins. The strappy bodice is fine, but it’s nothing super memorable.
- I feel like this is one of the collections that was on everyone’s mind when we started to look forward to Margot’s Barbie press looks. Originally worn by Claudia Schiffer, this cropped blazer was paired with slit skirt that revealed a polkadot undie. While I do think that was fun, I understand why they went with a full skirt here, and I still think it works.
- You can always count on Tracee to serve you up a look! She’s wearing Christopher John Rogers, because she has taste, however I love that she went for an all black moment. CJR is known for being a mastermind when it comes to color, but do not be mistaken, he can do both! What makes this all black look intriguing is the play with texture. Not only do we have this tinsel, knit top, but we also have a skirt that’s been gathered here and there to create a fun mermaid silhouette that has the most beautiful movement!
- Two for two! Maximilian Davis is doing such incredible work at Ferragamo, especially when it comes to taking a brand with a more conservative audience and trying to appeal to a younger audience, while still keeping them in mind. The way the top ruches and gather sin the center is done very nicely, and I love the way it continues to the neckline to create this angled, high collar. This horse tail like fringe in the front is fun and adds to the movement of the skirt, but while still, it creates a really intriguing break that almost makes the dress look like a top paired with culottes.
So that was this week! I realize I did forget to send out a Poor Things costume analysis. No promises, but I’ll try to get it out this week.
TTYL!!!
xx