A Ludicrously Capacious Bag, and other stuff
This Week In Fashion
The newsletter’s late this week because I spent Wednesday to Saturday night thinking I had a kidney infection, to thinking my appendix burst, to thinking I had liver cancer. A couple of doctor visits, procedures, and opinions later, we’re still not sure wtf happened to me, but most signs are pointing to the fact that I might just have endometriosis! Not ideal, but at least I’m not dying so that’s cool.
Julien Dossena, the creative director of Paco Rabanne, has been name the next guest designer for Jean Paul Gaultier Couture. I’m excited for this one, particularly because Paco really did so much at JPG, it feels very fitting. The collection will debut during Paris Fashion Week in July.
Yitty, Lizzo’s shapewear brand, just dropped gender affirming shapewear. This is such an amazing thing, and although I believe this is something that Lizzo genuinely put thought into, it comes at a time when the trans community is not at all getting this same support from our political figures and just individuals in general. I am not the one to review these products, but I really hope they fill something that is missing in the market for many! (edit: since writing this, I have seen existing brands wondering if a collaboration would have been more beneficial as to not take away from those brands that already exist and have more experience and representation with these kinds of things)
Yes, this is important news that requires its own section. It’s my newsletter, I do what I want. Succession Season 4 premiered this past Sunday and my king, Tom, delivered the best drag of all time when he insulted Cousin Greg’s date. Upon seeing her Burberry tote he said, “So I hear you’ve made an enormous faux pas and everyone’s laughing up their sleeves about your date.” To which Greg replies, “What, why?” Prompting Tom to absolutely EAT with, “Because she’s brought a ludicrously capacious bag. What’s even in there, huh? Flat shoes for the subway? Her lunch pail? I mean, Greg, it’s monstrous, it’s gargantuan. You could take it camping. You could slide it across the floor after a bank job.”
Brilliant writing.
This was such a smart moment, because it doesn’t matter that she’s wearing an old Burberry Freya tote, what matters is that she’s not fitting into the quiet luxury crowd at Logan’s birthday party. The print and the capacious size of it make it known that she does not belong. These people don’t wear branded things, They’re the “old money aesthetic” and not the old money aesthetic that people who dress like Blair Waldorf cartoon characters on TikTok tell you it is, but actual old money that looks quite sad and dull and truly has you wondering if they’re actually at Logan’s birthday or his funeral. Furthermore, they are so rich that they don’t even need a bag to carry their own things. Perhaps if she’d been holding the straps in one hand there would have been something more chic about her only having one usable limb.
It’s funny, because if you look at Burberry’s business plan, they are positioning themselves as a high luxury brand. It started with Riccardo Tisci and is continuing with Daniel Lee. However in this context, this bag is not the peak of luxury, and therefore neither is Burberry. Have we checked on the Burberry PR team?
- Bad Bunny for Time; The Willy Chavarria coat on the cover! I know that’s right. This is Time’s first interview done fully in Spanish, and Willy often draws inspiration from his culture and being a Latinx designer, so I love this. Willy is one of my favorite menswear designers— designers period. It’s a shame we don’t see his clothing more often, but this is such a good piece. It’s nipped at the waist but it still has that larger frame in the shoulder that we’re used to seeing from Willy. The Margiela coat has a stunning structure and I love the bow details. The Tanner Fletcher suit with blue bows is sweet, and I feel like the styling here is really complimentary of Bad Bunny’s usual style, so it makes sense to me. Styled by Nycole Sariol.
- Emma Chamberlain for CR Fashion Book; This is Emma’s coolest shoot to date. I think the transition from influencer/YouTuber to fashion It girl can be a rough one, and very rarely is something interesting. Honestly, I’ve never been a regular consumer of Emma’s content and I didn’t really understand the craze over her sense of style, but recently, I think I’m starting to get it a little. Maybe it’s because her style has evolved a little bit, maybe it’s because she has more pull with brands, but it’s felt a bit more experimental lately. The Christopher Kane ribcage dress is so good. I love the clinical feel of it with the clear vinyl straps and the lace apron skirt. The harness moment is sick and the latex and sheer materials in the water are equal parts spicy and sweet. I feel like we haven’t really seen Emma do “sexy” so this is interesting, and it was shot by Petra Collins so everything here makes sense to me. Style by Ava Van Osdol.
- Jodie Turner-Smith for Elle UK; Jodie is such a dream and such a fantastic fashion girl— she just gives herself to the look. Do I wish this had been a touch more of a serve in terms of styling? Sure, but that green knit dress, pwahh. Styled by Georgia Medley.
- The Hollywood Reporter 25 Most Powerful Stylists; So let’s run through some of these. Sandra Amador being featured for her styling of Austin Butler is a silly little choice. This man let the spirit of Elvis posses his body, and not once did I get a Las Vegas residency worth outfit. I feel like Warren Alfie Baker styles the same men in different fonts lmao. Regardless, I think featuring his work with Andrew Garfield is fine— Andrew’s looks haven’t been groundbreaking, but he gives us a fun menswear moment sometimes. I would have rioted if Wayman & Micah weren’t on this list. Although I’ve always enjoyed their work, I’ve especially been looking forward to it this past year. Their styling of Jodie-Turner Smith is always so scrumptious. Jason Bolden has a stacked roster, and I enjoy seeing his work, but it’s not always my favorite. Featuring his work with Michael B. Jordan makes sense, and I’ve been interesed in Michael’s style recently, but I thought it should have been his work with Sabrina Carpenter. Other than that horrid Paco Rabanne moment at the Oscar’s Vanity Fair party, he’s really good at styling her petite frame; she never feels like she’s swimming in anything. Kollin Carter definitely deserves, his and Cardi B’s evolution in fashion has been so wonderful to see. Molly Dickson being featured for styling Sydney Sweeney was bold lol. Sadie Sink on the other hand, that’s fine, not groundbreaking, but. I’m not a huge Molly fan typically, but I’ve enjoyed her work with Kathryn Newton quite a bit recently. Ryan Hastings is the first stylist that I have been this obsessed with in a long time. He’s featured for his work with Taylor Russell, which is his standout in my opinion, but his work with Addison Rae has also been very good. Samantha McMillen being featured for her work with Ana de Armas feels like a set up since Ana’s looks are always boring or ugly or both. I’ll put the blame on Ana and Louis Vuitton though, because Samantha also styles Elle Fanning, and I tend to love her looks. Law Roach deserves, obviously. We mainly know him for his work with Zendaya, but that man has a ROSTER. He truly is an image architect, and I love that he sees the full vision beyond just the outfit. Law is also one of the few that his his own archive of pieces that he pulls from for his clients, which is so special. Elizabeth Stewart was named stylist of her year, and I think focusing on her work with Cate Blanchett makes sense, especially with this last award season. I also tend to like her work with Jessica Chastain. Erin Walsh and her styling of Anne Hathaway makes sense. We’ve all been talking about Anne’s style recently, and she looks like she’s been having so much fun with her looks! Jahleel Weaver and Rihanna, duh. Rihanna and Mel were such a special pairing of stylist and client, and Jahleel used to assist Mel, so it’s only natural that this duo works as well. Karla Welch with a focus on Olivia Wilde? When Tracee Ellis Ross is right there? Also not to stir shit, but I heard Karla was messy, can anyone confirm or deny that tea. Kate Young’s styling of Margot Robbie is hit or miss, and it’s usually a miss when it’s Chanel, but lately we’ve been getting some great moments. I think she does a great job with Sophie Turner and her LV contract, and my favorite client of her’s is Dakota Johnson. Now for my complaints! I feel like Laura Sophie Cox should have been on this list, because her work with Ayo Edebiri is delicious. ALSO, where was Harry Lambert?! Obviously, everyone knows him for his work with Harry Styles, but I’ve been loving his styling of Eddie Redmayne recently. I feel like Eddie has been experimenting so much with his typical menswear looks, and that definitely has a lot to do with Harry Lambert.
- RM of BTS is Bottega Veneta’s first brand ambassador!!!
- Dove Cameron as the “modern muse” for Carolina Herrera’s Spring 2023 campaign is brilliant. It’s shot by Elizaveta Porodina and although it feels very modern, it still has a glamorous, 80s, film noir feel to it all at once. This is a really smart way to get the brand to feel more youthful and to appeal to a younger audience.
- Jeff Goldblum, love of my life, fashion king; no notes.
- This was a good dress until they shortened the fringe and nipped its waist. I’m sure this was done to suit Madison’s style more, but at what cost? This was supposed to make it sexier, I’m sure, but in my opinion, the original looser fit would have been a lot sexier, and more fun had she worn a boot.
- The shoe is throwing me off, but other than that, this gold spun raffia coat is scrumptious. Love the gorgeous godets in the skirt.
- Dakota and Elle were Samanthat McMillen’s guests to the Hollywood Reporter stylists dinner and I’m obsessed with her in this Loewe look. It’s not secret I’m a Jonathan Anderson fangirl, but this red is stunning on her and I love the way the anthurium covers one of her breasts; here for fun ways to cover the nips. It’s a simple look, but I think it’s lovely.
- Megan Thee Stallion wore a custom Paco Rabanne look inspired by their SS1997 collection. This was a look that Law Roach put together months in advance, and I like that we’ve been able to see some of their work together, since Meg has been away for a while. Here’s the thing, I love an archival piece or an archival reference, but that crotch area needs help.
- At the same event, Law wore a look by Willy Chavarria, which you know I’m here for. I do wish it had been a touch shorter, but I’ve loved Willy’s work with Satin and this play on traditional menswear suiting. I love the way the skirt has a similar style to the wide legged pants we often see from the brand.
- Hooded styles have obviously been very popular recently, but this takes it to the next level, and I love this 60s swim cap style. The print is fun and it fits her beautifully.
- The Pedro Pascal fashion renaissance continues. We love a crop top and we love an unfinished hem. The deconstructive element is very Margiela and I love the way all the pieces interact with each other— it almost feels like a pattern for a piece. The print makes me feel like the satin of a tie has been turned into a top.
- Jacob loves this Bottega bag, and I love that for him.
- Anya Taylor-Joy has been doing press for the Super Mario Bros movie and she’s been channeling her inner Princess Peach, who she voices in the movie. I believe this is a custom look by Alexander McQueen, and it’s obviously very Sarah Burton. I think this fits her well, I like the color, and I love how it almost feels like a butcher’s apron. I also enjoy how it appears as if the high-low has been made by just slashing the front open. It’s not my absolute favorite Anya or McQueen look, but I’ll take it.
This Dior Motomami moment on the other hand… yikes. Listen, I love that she’s ready for a round of Mario cart, like I said, I’m always here for a bit of method dressing. The idea is there, but the execution is poor. There’s far too much fabric in the crotch and I feel like a sleek high ponytail with a thick black headband would have been fun. I don’t think it’s too costumey, because like, where the fuck else would you wear this, I just wish it was done better. Perhaps we could have gone Balmain or looked into the Chanel archives for something Karl had done— I don’t know is something would have made sense for Princess Peach, but I know there were moto moments.
- Rina has been killing this John Wick: Chapter 4 press run. Although Matthew Williams is never giving us Givenchy couture at this point, he is giving us Givenchy couture references. I knew I’d seen this somewhere, but then @ideservecouture posted photos of the Givenchy SS2001 Couture collection on TikTok and I was like omg that’s it. If you don’t know, that was Alexander McQueen’s last collection for the brand, and there wasn’t any press there, which is why so few people every talk about it. It’s a great archival reference and I love the way the snake skin seems to be bursting around her shoulder, almost like a snake shedding its skin. The mesh is dyed quite well, but the dress could be a bit shorter.
- I think Dua is the first person I’m seeing in Daniel Lee’s first collection for Burberry, and honestly, makes sense. She’s always wearing full, fresh off the runway looks, and dresses the way Gen Z TikTok fashion girlies think they dress, you know? The colorful tartans were my favorite part of the show, so I’m it.
- Zendaya and Law Roach both wore Rahul Mishra Couture to the 2023 NMACC Gala in Mumbai. The duo were both styled by Rahul and his team, and Law helped “creative direct” Zendaya’s look; okay, pop off!! The peony coat on Law is stunning and tailored perfectly. I love the little mandarin collar and the embroidery is beautiful. Similarly, the embroidery on Zendaya’s saree gown is just as stunning, and pulls from the Spring 2023 Couture collection. I also believe that Law has been a supporter of Rahul for a very long time, so it’s lovely to see the continued support for a couturier that deserves the attention.
So that was this week! Hopefully my insides feel better this week and I have the strength to finally finish Paris Fashion Week reviews.
TTYL!!!
xx